Going to the Well for Water: The Seamus Ennis Field Diary 1942-1946

16 A Visit to Limerick

16 A Visit to Limerick 14 to 21 November 19451 Wednesday2 14.11.45 I spent a week in Limerick and district, November 1945, on work for the Irish Folklore Society.3 My mission was to note down any facts obtainable from (1) Joseph Halpin, 15 Clontarf Place, Limerick, and (2) James D’Alton (69), Shanagolden, Foynes, County Limerick, about dancing – Irish country dancing – as it was known in their youth. Fionán Mac Coluim had made notes on the subject and wanted me to record anything obtainable from these two men, as his belief was that the dancing branch of our culture was still pretty strong here in this part of the country; and that much information could be gleaned by my spending some time here. I give here a diary of my visit to Limerick. In another place I set forth the information I collected. Train from Kingsbridge4 to Limerick, 9 A.M. to 2 P.M. Áine de Búrca informed by Fionán Mac Coluim that I was to come and would play at ‘Siamsa Mór’ in Cruise’s Hotel5 on pipes tonight. Word from her to say she would engage a room for me at Geary’s Hotel,6 where she stays. Came straight to Geary’s and had lunch. Áine had gone back to school at 2 P.M. and so I saw no one I knew and decided to have a rest after my early start – 8 A.M. from home – and went to a cinema for a couple of hours. When I came back to the hotel, Áine was in and welcomed me cordially to Limerick. We then proceeded to discuss the ‘Siamsa Mór’ tonight and the activities of ‘Cairde na Gaeilge’7 – of which organisation Áine is the secretary. They seem to have awakened a widespread interest in the language throughout Limerick. As the Siamsa was to start at 8 P.M., we had not much time to spare, what with dressing and my tuning of the pipes, and arrived pretty 317 318 Going to the Well for Water punctually at Cruise’s Hotel where the ‘Cairde’ had assembled and were still assembling and chatting in the long hallway. Supper was first and was very enjoyable in that I met some of the young people of Limerick with whom Áine was acquainted. A friend of hers, Séamus de Bhailis, turned out to be a very friendly young man whom I had met in Dublin in a social way during some years he worked there. After supper the inevitable list of speakers spoke, some entertainingly and others in a heavier vein, so that it was towards eleven o’clock when the ‘Siamsa’ proper started. I was somewhat tired myself and not keen on dancing immediately, more especially at the breakneck speed of presentday céilí bands, and retired with Séamus de Bhailis on his invitation for a chat over a bottle of stout. He introduced me to a bunch of young schoolmasters and friends of his, all admirable fellows who seemed bent on enjoying the night. We went up to the hall after a short stay in the crowded bar and sat for a while chatting with others whom we met. ‘An Seabhac’ [Pádraig Ó Siochfhradha] sang two songs – he had come there as a guest, officially, from Comhdháil Náisiúnta na Gaeilge8 in Dublin. Áine de Búrca later introduced me to Miss Úna Halpin, sister of Teresa Halpin of Teagosc-Leabhar na Bheidhlíne9 fame and early American Gaelic League days, and daughter of the famous Joseph Halpin, dancer and dancing master. I chatted with her and arranged a time to call to her father’s house and see him, as Fionán Mac Coluim wanted me especially to drop in to him and write all the knowledge he could give me about dancing in the early days before the Gaelic League and Dancing Commission10 introduced many of these new dances we see danced in céilí halls nowadays. Later in the night I played some tunes on the pipes for the company, and chatted with other people I knew until the ‘Siamsa’ was over and availed of that opportunity to return to the hotel [Geary’s] and get some sleep – 2 A.M. Thursday 15.11.45 I slept until 10.30 and wrote a letter home after my breakfast. In order to fill in the time until lunch hour I went...