A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City's Garment Industry

Notes

Notes Introduction The Rise and Fall of the New York Garment Industry 1. Roy Helfgott, ‘‘Women’s and Children’s Apparel,’’ in Made in New York: Case Studies in Metropolitan Manufacturing, ed. Max Hall (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1959), 98–99. 2. Nancy Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work: A Century of Industry and Immigrants in Paris and New York (Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1997), 37–38. 3. For the best accounts of the rise (and fall) of New York as a garment center, see Green, Ready-to-Wear and Ready to Work; Roger Waldinger, Through the Eye of the Needle: Immigrants and Enterprise in New York’s Garment Trades (New York: New York University Press, 1986); Jesse Pope, The Clothing Industry in New York (Columbia, MO.: E.W. Stephens , 1905); Helfgott, ‘‘Women’s and Children’s Apparel,’’ 19–134. 4. Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work, 48. 5. Christine Stansell, ‘‘The Origins of the Sweatshop: Women and Early Industrialization in New York City,’’ in Working-Class America: Essays on Labor, Community, and American Society, ed. Michael Frisch and Daniel Walkowitz (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1983), 78–103. 6. Steven Fraser, ‘‘Combined and Uneven Development in the Men’s Clothing Industry ,’’ Business History Review 57 (Winter 1983): 535. 7. See Hadassa Kosak, ‘‘Tailors and Troublemakers: Jewish Militancy in the New York Garment Industry, 1889–1910,’’ in this volume. 8. Susan Glenn, Daughters of the Shtetl: Life and Labor in the Immigrant Generation (Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 1990). 9. See Nancy Carnevale, ‘‘Culture of Work: Italian Immigrant Women Homeworkers in the New York City Garment Industry, 1890–1914,’’ in this volume. 10. See Hadassa Kosak, Cultures of Opposition: Jewish Immigrant Workers, New York City, – (Albany: State University of New York Press, 2000). 11. For histories of the unions, see Louis Levine, The Women’s Garment Workers: A History of the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (New York: Huebsch, 1924); Melech Epstein, Jewish Labor in the U.S.A., 2 vols. (1950–53; reissue, Ktav, 1969); Gus Tyler, Look for the Union Label: A History of the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (Armonk, NY: M.E. Sharpe, 1995); Steven Fraser, Labor Will Rule: Sidney Hillman and the Rise of American Labor (New York: Free Press, 1991); Jo Ann Argersinger, Making the Amalgamated: Gender, Ethnicity, and Class in the Baltimore Clothing Industry, – (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1999). 236 Notes to Pages 9–20 12. Jennifer Guglielmo, ‘‘Sweatshop Feminism: Italian Women’s Political Culture in New York City’s Needle Trades, 1890–1919,’’ in Sweatshop USA: The American Sweatshop in Historical and Global Perspective, ed. Daniel Bender and Richard Greenwald (New York: Routledge, 2003), 185–86. 13. Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work, 53. 14. See Eileen Boris, Home to Work: Motherhood and the Politics of Industrial Homework in the United States (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994); Daniel Bender, Sweated Work, Weak Bodies: Anti-Sweatshop Campaigns and Languages of Labor (New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 2004). 15. Leon Stein, The Triangle Fire (Philadelphia: Lippincott, 1962); David Von Drehle, Triangle: The Fire That Changed America (New York: Atlantic Monthly Books, 2003). 16. Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work, 48. 17. Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work, 56; Melech Epstein, Jewish Labor in the U.S.A., – (1953; Ktav, 1969), 124–56; Stanley Nadel, ‘‘Reds versus Pinks: A Civil War in the Garment Industry,’’ New York History 66:1 (1985): 48–72. 18. Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work, 64. 19. Bender, Sweated Work, Sweated Bodies, 155–66. 20. Helfgott, ‘‘Women’s and Children’s Apparel,’’ 93; Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work, 204. 21. Helfgott, ‘‘Women’s and Children’s Apparel,’’ 23, 110–14. 22. Ibid., 60, 105–8. 23. Altagracia Ortiz, ‘‘‘En la aguja y el pedal eché la hiel’: Puerto Rican Women in the Garment Industry of New York City, 1920–80,’’ in Ortiz, ed., Puerto Rican Women and Work: Bridges in Transnational Labor (Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1996), 55–81. 24. Joshua Freeman, Working Class New York: Life and Labor Since World War II (New York: New Press, 2000), 45. 25. Roger Waldinger, Still the Promised City? African-Americans and New Immigrants in Postindustrial New York (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1996), 138, 142–43. 26. Green, Ready-to-wear and Ready-to-work, 205; Waldinger, Still the Promised City?, 148. 27. Ortiz, ‘‘‘En la aguja y el pedal eché la hiel’,’’ 65; Carmen...