Soft Soil, Black Grapes: The Birth of Italian Winemaking in California

Notes

 237  Notes Notes to the Introduction 1. The working notion of race that I have adopted in this book was drawn primarily from David R. Roediger, The Wages of Whiteness: Race and the Making of the American Working Class (New York: Verso, 2007); Matthew Frye Jacobson, Whiteness of a Different Color: European Immigrants and the Alchemy of Race (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1999); Michael Omi and Howard Winant, Racial Formation in the United States: From the 1960s to the 1990s (New York: Routledge, 1994). 2. Guido Rossati, Relazione di un viaggio di istruzione negli Stati Uniti d’America fatto per incarico del Ministero (Rome: Tip. Naz. G. Bertero, 1900), 188–196; Carlo Dondero, “Asti, Sonoma County: An Italian Swiss Agricultural Colony and What Is Has Grown To,” Out West 42, no. 2 (1902): 252–265; Eliot Lord, The Italian in America (New York: B. F. Buck & Company, 1905), 135–142; Edmondo Mayor des Planches, Attraverso gli Stati Uniti: Per l’emigrazione italiana (Turin: Unione tipografico-editrice torinese, 1913), 30–37. 3. Lanier Bartlett, “An Immigrant in the Land of Opportunity,” World’s Work 17 (April 1909): 11375–11380; James Hofer, “Guasti and the Italian Vineyard Company,” 1984, Wine and Wine Industry Collection, Special Collections and University Archives, University Library, Cal Poly Pomona; James Hofer, “Cucamonga Wines and Vines: A History of the Cucamonga Pioneer 238  Notes to the Introduction Vineyard Association,” master’s thesis, Claremont Graduate School, 1983: the citation from the Daily Report (August 30, 1919) is on page 69. 4. Garrett Peck, The Prohibition Hangover: Alcohol in America from Demon Rum to Cult Cabernet (New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 2009). 5. Laurie Itow, “The Gallo Brothers’ Secretive Empire,” San Francisco Examiner (September 1, 1985): D8; Jacklyn Fierman, “How Gallo Crushes the Competition ,” Fortune (September 1, 1986): 24–31; Marvin R. Shanken, “Ernest Gallo at 90,” Wine Spectator (June 30, 1999): 52–74; Jerry Hirsch, “At 75, Wine Giant Gallo Is Refining Its Palate,” Los Angeles Times (April 4, 2008): C1. 6. Werner Sollors, “Introduction: The Invention of Ethnicity,” in The Invention of Ethnicity, ed. Werner Sollors (New York: Oxford University Press, 1991), xvi. The quotation from the Chinese laundryman is from Hamilton Holt, ed., The Life Stories of Undistinguished Americans as Told by Themselves (New York: James Pott & Company, 1906), 289. 7. Kevin Starr, Americans and the California Dream, 1850–1915 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1973); Kevin Starr, Inventing the Dream: California Through the Progressive Era (New York: Oxford University Press, 1998); Lawrence Culver, The Frontier of Leisure: Southern California and the Shaping of Modern America (New York: Oxford University Press, 2010). For the role of racial and ethnic minorities in shaping the West in American history and the national imagination, see Dan Moos, Outside America: Race, Ethnicity, and the Role of the American West in National Belonging (Lebanon: University Press of New England, 2005). On the literary construction, by Northern European writers and southbound travelers, of the Mediterranean as the paradigmatic place for the pleasures of the body and relaxed self-discipline from the sixteenth century onward, see, among others, Robert Aldrich, The Seduction of the Mediterranean: Writing, Art, and Homosexual Fantasy (New York: Routledge, 1993). 8. John Charles Frémont, Narrative of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains in the Year 1842 and to Oregon and North California in the Years 1843–44 (New York: Appleton and Company, 1856), 29. 9. Charles Victor Hall, California: The Ideal Italy of the World: An Outline Mirror of the State for Health, Happiness, and Delightful Homes (Philadelphia: Cooperative Printing Co., 1875). 10. Quoted in Dino Cinel, From Italy to San Francisco: The Immigrant Experience (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1982), 15. 11. The geographer Gary Peters argues that wine regions and wine landscapes, and the sense of place they convey, are socially and culturally produced. Notes to the Introduction  239 According to Peters, “America’s viticultural landscapes, or winescapes, are human creations that have unfolded as the elements of the natural landscape —landforms, climates, vegetation, soils, and water supplies—have been brought together with the environmental needs of wine grapes. . . . We can understand more about viticultural landscapes by considering the three fundamental elements that shape them: (1) the grapes and their needs, (2) the natural environments that best meet those needs, and (3) the viticulturists and wine makers who determine everything from the varieties of grapes, spacing of the vines, and trellising systems to the final...