Sensuous Scholarship

3. Embodying Colonial Memories

~ ~M~~~II~~ t~t~~IAt M~M~RI~~ The acrid smell of burning resins wafts through Adamu Jenitongo 's compound, preparing it for the holle (spirits). It is late afternoon in Tillaberi, and the sounds of a Songhay spirit possession ceremony crackle through the dusty air: the high pitched "cries" of the monochord violin, the resonant clacks of bamboo drumsticks striking gourd drums, the melodious contours of the praise-singer's "old words," the patter of dancing feet on dune sand. It is a white hot day in June 1987, and the mix of sounds and smells brings the spirits to Adamu Jenitongo's egg-shaped dunetop compound. Four mudbrick houses shimmer in the languorous heat. From under a thatched canopy at the compound entrance, the orchestra continues to play spirit music. The spirits like Adamu Jenitongo's compound. Drawn by pungent smells, pulsing sounds and dazzling dance, they visit it day and night. On this day the Gengi Bi, or spirits of the earth, have already come to the compound to bless members of the audience, giving them the courage to confront their hunger and sicknesses. They sing rather than talk, and their mysterious melodies have lingered and dissipated into the dusky air. They are not the only visitors on this day. Clustered in front of the musician's canopy are three Hauka spirits-spirits of European force. They groan, bellow, and thump their chests with clenched fists as they stamp across the sand. Saliva bubbles from their mouths. They babble. Their eyes blaze. Istambula, the leader of the Hauka, is there, as is General Malia, the General of the Red Sea. These "military" officers are served well by Bambara Mossi, a conscripted foot soldier who is exceedingly crass. "Hauk'ize," Istambula shouts. "Hauk'ize of Tillaberi, present yourselves for our Roundtable," he says in Songhay. Slowly the non-possessed men and women who carry Embodying Colonial Memories 49 Hauka spirits form a loose circle around the deities. Bambara Mossi makes sure that the mediums stand at "attention" in the presence of Istambula and General Malia. Adamu Jenitongo and the anthropologist are seated under the shade of a tall eucalyptus, the unquenchable thirst of which has withered the other trees in the compound. They sit silently on palm frond mats and swat flies. The Hauka Roundtable is about to convene. Suddenly Istambula breaks through the circle of mediums and runs stiff-legged in the direction ofJenitongo and the anthropologist. He leaves his feet like a swan diver and belly flops just in front of them. "I swear to Bonji (God). I swear to Bonji," he mutters in Pidgin French, "that ... that you go come wit' us." Standing in the shadows of the canopy, the Hauka mediums look toward Jenitongo and the anthropologist. "You must join us," Istambula says switching to Songhay. "We need your words." Although Istambula's glowing eyes peer into the anthropologist 's, he must be talking about the anthropologist's mentor, AdamuJenitongo, the wisest and most powerful man in the region . "We need your words," Istambula repeats in Songhay. "In the name of Bonji." AdamuJenitongo says nothing. Mounkaila, a tall wiry man, waves to the anthropologist from the canopy. "Hey, Anasaara (European) hey," he states in Songhay . "He wants you. Come!" "Me?" the anthropologist asks. Mounkaila beckons him to join the circle. Meanwhile Istambula's inert body, stinking of sweat and dirt, is jolted with what seem to be electroshocks. His face crinkles like burning paper as he pushes himself up on one knee and lifts his right hand toward the anthropologist. "We go jus'now." he says in Pidgin. "We need your words," he says in Songhay. "Why me?" the anthropologist asks in Songhay. "I European. You European. We European." he says in Pidgin. "You hear me?" AdamuJenitongo tells the anthropologist to stand up. He extends his hand to Istambula, who grabs it and pulls himself up. Braced against the anthropologist's shoulder, Istambula staggers over to the canopy to resume his place at the center of the Figure 4. Hauka Spirit Possession, Tillaberi, Niger, 1977. Embodying ColonialMemories 51 group. Mounkaila puts his hand on the anthropologist's shoulder . "Thank you for coming to our discussion. It is only correct that all the Europeans in Tillaberi attend the meeting. That, of course, includes you," he concludes. "Thanks," the anthropologist says nervously. The General braces himself against one of the non-possessed Hauka mediums...