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Photographs 1. Coffee and banana trees 18 2. Father’s house and his youngest son’s house 19 3. Making dinner 19 4. An urban Chagga man’s rural house 20 5. A local road scene on a market day 21 6. Bananas to be transported 31 7. Tomato sellers 35 8, 9. Selling and measuring of finger millet 51 10. Sellers of cooking bananas and second-hand clothes 53 11. Bucketfuls of sweet bananas 53 12. Klabu next to a small marketplace 67 13. A woman selling mbege 67 14. The bride in a send-off ceremony 125 15. The lineage brother lowers the bride’s kanga 125 vii Illustrations 16. Chagga men who live in Dar es Salaam 145 17. Women singing hymns at a funeral 147 18. Matanga meeting 148 19. Women sharing mbege 148 20. A grandmother next to her house 153 Maps 1. Tanzania xii 2. Districts and former chiefdoms in Northern Kilimanjaro 15 3. Main road and railway connections in and from Kilimanjaro 16 4. Road and railway connections in Tanzania 17 viii Illustrations ...

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