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On Their Dress They Wore a Body: Fashion and Identity in Late Qing Shanghai
- positions: east asia cultures critique
- Duke University Press
- Volume 11, Number 2, Fall 2003
- pp. 301-330
- Article
- Additional Information
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positions: east asia cultures critique 11.2 (2003) 301-330
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On Their Dress They Wore a Body:
Fashion and Identity in Late Qing Shanghai
Paola Zamperini
[Figures]
Going Somatic
And the eyes of both of them were opened, and they knew they were naked; and they sewed fig leaves together, and made themselves aprons.
—Genesis, 3.7
One needs a semiotics of bodily adornment and personal accessory in order to know people: what Balzac calls “la vestignomie” has become “almost a branch of the art created by Gall and Lavater.”
—Peter Brooks, Body Work
In many cultures undressing—oneself and others—is considered a very erotic and enticing activity. The present essay, however, argues that leaving someone's clothes on can be just as interesting and titillating—at least within the context of academic research.1 Thus it is centered on fictional representations of clothed bodies and fashion in Shanghai within the realm of late Qing literary production.2 As it will become clear from the following [End Page 301] discussion, in vernacular novels written between the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century, clothes do much more than simply cover fictional bodies. They also constitute their social, gender, national, and racial identities. Focusing on the dialectic relationship between the body, clothing, and identity will help us to unravel the imaginary of a very interesting group of writers in one of the most fascinating junctures in Chinese literature and history.3 In the past twenty years, the scholarship produced about fashion and the body in many different fields has shown that in any given culture, fabricating a dress and wearing it simultaneously define the body as a cultural artifact. Within the context of Chinese tradition, clothing is the marker not of sin, as the above quote from the Bible illustrates, but of “Civilization.” It is what distinguishes man from beast, Chinese from barbarian.