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A Hawaiian surfer wearing a malo puakai, the traditional surfwear for Hawaiian men, held an alaia surfboard on Waikīkī Beach circa 1890. In an interview with the author in 1975, Larry Kerr, a surfer from the early 1900s, identified this Hawaiian surfer as Charles Kauha and said that he was “the original Waikīkī beachboy.” photographer unknown . courtesy bishop museum. Tom Blake invented the hollow board in 1929 and introduced it to the surfers in Waikīkī during the 1930s. Duke Kahanamoku stood with a 16-foot hollow board circa 1930 that was the same length as a papa olo, the longest of the traditional Hawaiian surfboards. photo by tai sing loo. courtesy bishop museum. In the earliest sketches of Hawaiians surfing, the artists of exploring expeditions showed as many women surfing as men, but in the early photos of surfing, there are very few shots of Hawaiian women surfing. Vi Makua rode a wave at Canoes in Waikīkī circa 1959. Makua, sister of legendary beachboy Blue Makua, was the first woman to be certified as a canoe captain on Waikīkī Beach. photo by clarence maki. The first surfers of Asian ancestry were the children of the men and women from China, Japan, and Korea who came to work in Hawai‘i in the late 1800s and early 1900s. In August 1947, Kikue Shimabukuro, one of the first Japanese women to surf, posed on the beach with her small hollow board. courtesy claire shimabukuro. Abraham “Purple” Kahui, a Waikīkī beachboy during the 1940s and 1950s, bodysurfed at Queen’s in Waikīkī circa 1950. Queen’s was a popular bodysurfing spot until the mid1950s , when surfers riding newly introduced foam boards eventually crowded out the bodysurfers. Kahui rode in a traditional Hawaiian bodysurfing position with both arms held tight to his sides. photo by clarence maki. Mikyla Hiilani Thomas showed the winning form that made her the women’s bodysurfing champion at Sandy Beach in 2008. Bodysurfing among Hawaiian women has its origin in the epic legend Hi‘iakaikapoliopele when the goddess Hi‘iaka rode a wave with Lohi‘au, the king of Kaua‘i. In the legend, Hi‘iaka bodysurfed next to Lohi‘au while he rode a surfboard made from her pa‘u puakai, or surfing sarong. photo by neal miyake. During the summer of 2003, John Mounts, Jimmy Austin, and Fred Hemmings (steering ) caught a wave at Castle’s, a big-wave surf spot in Waikīkī off Kapi‘olani Park. The surfer next to them was Loch Eggers. Traditional Hawaiian surfers called Castle’s Kalehuawehe . photo by joss descoteaux. In 2009, Greg Wong stretched out in a perfect barrel, bodysurfing with a small handboard attached to his right hand. Wong was a contestant in the Redwings Memorial World Championships of Handboarding, an annual event at Point Panic in Honolulu. photo by greg rice. The TV series Baywatch Hawaii ran from 1999 to 2001. During a break in the filming, Hawaiian waterman Brian Keaulana took three of the cast and crew for a canoe ride at Avalanche, a big-wave surf spot on O‘ahu’s North Shore. From front to back, Jason Brooks, Greg Barnett, and Mike Trisler lean out on the outrigger to keep the canoe from overturning, while Keaulana steers. photo by joss descoteaux. During the 1970s, paipo rider Sean Ross was a lifeguard at the Pipeline, where he rode its world-famous barrels on its biggest days. On this wave Ross leaned into a hardbottom turn with only one rail of his Hawaii Paipo Designs board in the water. photo by alan “bud” mccray When Tom Morey introduced the “boogie board” in the early 1970s, most paipo riders retired their wooden boards and switched to the new foam bodyboards. Sean Ross was one of the exceptions , and in 1978, he rode his wooden paipo board through a Pipeline barrel. photo by steve wilkings. Traditional Hawaiian sand sliders ran after a receding wave, made a flat surface dive, and rode the thin layer of returning water on their chests. Today, sand sliders are called skimmers, and they use skimboards to slide across the sand and then surf an incoming wave back to shore. In 2009, Mark Magno rode across the beach in Waikīkī, while looking ahead for a wave to surf in the shorebreak. photo by joe marquez. Four members of the Hawai‘i Amateur Skimboarding League watched for waves during a Sandy Beach skimboard contest in 2009. From...


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