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+DZDLLDQ6XUILQJ Traditions from the Past UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I PRESS honolulu JOHN R.K. CLARK © 2011 university of hawai‘i press All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America 16 15 14 13 12 11 6 5 4 3 2 1 Photographs © by photographer as shown library of congress cataloging-in-publication data Clark, John R. K. Hawaiian surfing : traditions from the past / John R. K. Clark. p. cm. English and Hawaiian. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-8248-3414-2 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Surfing—Hawaii—History. 2. Surfing—Hawaii—History—Sources. I. Title. GV839.65.H3C53 2011 797.3’209969—dc22 2010050465 University of Hawai‘i Press books are printed on acid-free paper and meet the guidelines for permanence and durability of the Council on Library Resources. designed by julie matsuo-chun printed by sheridan books, inc. Photo on title page: Kimo Hollinger and Eddie Aikau, two legendary Hawaiian surfers, caught a wave together circa 1970 at Waimea Bay on O‘ahu’s North Shore. Traditional Hawaiian surfers enjoyed riding the same wave with other surfers and encouraged others to take off with them. photo by don james In memory of Nuhikanaloa and Heleluhiau, my kūpuna who lived in Helumoa, Waikīkī. ...


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