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5฀ Liaoning Province To se e mor e clearl y what Chines e peopl e ea t o n a day-to-da y basis, we no w focus on one province: Liaoning in Northeastern China . This chapter surveys the geography of Liaoning Province, describes the food an d diet situation fo r the province as a whole, and lays out the application of McGee's zhenxianghua model. Whil e n o on e provinc e trul y ca n represen t a countr y a s larg e an d diverse as China in all details of food habits , Liaoning possesses characteristic s that are repeated elsewhere and are important to understanding China's issues of food supply , nutrition, an d well-being . The timing of this study fell just after th e end of food rationing in Chines e cities. Thus, the power of rations and subsidies to skew food choice s no longe r applied, and people had much more choice in what they would purchase an d eat. O f course , a s we shal l see , ol d foo d habit s di e hard , an d th e impac t o f food ration s and subsidie s remained i n people's minds and, thus, influence d their choices. Nevertheless, it is instructive to look at what they were eating at this momentous perio d i n th e food histor y of China . Geographical Backgroun d Liaoning (Figur e 5.1) i s the southernmost of the three northeastern province s of China, formerly know n a s Manchuria. I n latitude, it stretches from 38°43 ' to 43°26 ' north , o r abou t th e latitud e o f St . Louis, Missouri , t o Milwaukee , Wisconsin. I t i s the onl y northeaster n Chines e provinc e tha t ha s a seacoast . Its total area is 145,900 km2 (56,33 2 square miles), or about the size of Iowa. At the en d o f 1994 , the tota l population wa s about 4 0 million. 90฀Changing ฀Rice฀Bowl฀Economic ฀Development฀and ฀Diet฀in ฀China฀ A฀*) ฀r? ฀ J I L I N฀ INNER฀ M O N G O L I A฀ ( - ^฀ > /฀j฀ f**-^>-'฀Kangpin g฀*-)฀ 7฀i ฀ • j฀Fuxm .฀£ ฀? ฀• ฀/฀ j฀W ฀* ฀* *฀"Shenyan g฀. ฀J ฀I ฀A฀ {฀> i฀' .฀. ฀~ ฀* -฀® ฀Fushu n฀; ฀% ฀ \V฀ ( , A฀„ ฀* *฀o *฀^ ฀o°Donglin g฀W฀ ^฀^ ฀/ ฀°Be,zhen *฀/ ฀Suj,atu n฀^ ฀\฀ ^ v > V /฀/ ฀^ ฀"Dengt a฀ ° i฀\฀ J--vr--฀^ ฀. ฀• B e n x .฀HuaboziM t฀•฀ ('฀Ansha n฀>•฀ \฀HUlUda O฀rS ฀C ฀ U "฀•„.,„ •฀^ ฀ ^ *฀ \฀(Jinxi). £฀* V฀Haichen g฀^ ฀S฀ \—฀A ฀KYingko u฀v T฀-^y฀ (฀f ฀r ฀f฀ HEBEW^฀J ฀J ฀^ ฀Dandong /฀ N O R T H฀ Shanhaiguan^-T฀/ ฀^> *฀J ฀KORE A฀ On฀ V V S 1 S 1 Years Figure฀5.15฀Consumptio n฀of฀fine฀grain,฀rural฀Liaoning,฀1978-94฀Sourc e฀Liaonin g฀Statistical฀ Yearbooks,฀and฀calculations฀by฀the฀author฀ Grain Vegetable s Oi l Pork , beef, Poultr y Egg s Suga r Liquo r mutton Food categones I Urban • Rura l Figure฀5.16฀Urba n฀an d฀rural฀consumptio n฀o f฀categories฀o f฀food,฀Liaoning ,฀199 4฀Sourc e฀ Liaoning฀Statistical฀Yearbook,฀1995฀ ...

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