Going to the Well for Water: The Seamus Ennis Field Diary 1942-1946

1 Conamara

1 Conamara 2 July to 14 September 19421 Thursday 2.7.42 I left Dublin at 2.30 P.M. and reached Ballinasloe at 11.30 P.M. where I slept.2 Friday 3.7.42 I left Ballinasloe at one o’clock in the afternoon. I went to Oranmore, where I spoke to an old man. He sang ‘Is í Nóirín Mo Mhian’ [‘Nóirín Is My Desire’] for me. His rendering of the air was so bad that I was unable to recognise a single note, but I deciphered one verse that I had not heard previously: I slept last night in Castlebar, At the edge of your bed and you did not hear me. I stretched out my arm to kiss your mouth, You were not there and all I had was the blanket and myself.3 Séamus Ennis on bicycle (Courtesy of the late Barbara Ennis-Price) 25 That was all he had that was of interest to me. I continued to Galway and stayed at Micheál Ó hOisín’s house in Salthill. He plays the fiddle and pipes. I spent the night playing the whistle with him (that I had with me), the fiddle, and the pipes. He is one of the Ó hOisín family from Tuam (Amhráin Mhuighe Seóla)4 and he knows wonderful music. Amhráin Chlainne Gaedheal 5 arrived from Dublin this afternoon. Saturday 4.7.42 I got up at midday. Micheál [Ó hOisín] gave me an old air. He is unaware of its title. I will write it down. He played it for me on the pipes, on the fiddle and lilted it. I understood it best from the lilting.6 I went to Galway to see Seán Breathnach, a Conamara land superintendent (or some such title). My father and I know him. He, I think, would be very helpful in my work, because he knows Conamara better than anyone. He was not there. I will have to call again. I spent a while walking around the city but did not meet anyone I recognised. Two parcels of paper and other material arrived from the [Irish Folklore] Commission for me. I went for a swim and spent another night playing music. Sunday 5.7.42 We played music at nine in the morning! Mass at 11.00 A.M. (Letters to Séamus [Ó Duilearga], my father, Seán [Ó Súilleabháin]). Visited Pat Mullins, St Monica’s, Newcastle, this evening. I got three tunes from him on the accordion. I went in search of [Tadhg] Ó Concheanainn after that. I failed to find him. On my return I wrote down that tune from Micheál [Ó hOisín]. I went for a swim and then I visited the Keys family, New Line.7 I spent the night talking with them. NFC 1295: 1, diary page 26 Going to the Well for Water Monday 6.7.42 The morning was spent transcribing the tunes that I had collected yesterday, as well as some time studying Amhráin Chlainne Gaedheal. When I had finished, I attempted to find Tadhg [Ó Concheanainn] and enquired in the GPO. I was told he lived in the Newcastle area, but I was already aware of that. I went to Newcastle to find him. At every second house I asked for him. After an hour I eventually found the house. He was not there as he had gone home. I packed my bags and went out through Salthill, where I called to Micheál Ó Droighneáin in Na Forbacha. I had tea there and asked him about music. The only music in the place, according to him, was formally, not traditionally, acquired music (not native). (I forgot to mention that I asked an old man near Bearna about music. He told me there is none and he was very definite about it. I think he was right, because that is a very anglicised area, and Micheál Ó hOisín confirmed this afterwards.) [Micheál] Ó Droighneáin told me that he knew two other people in An Spidéal: Éamon Breathnach, opposite the College, and [Cáit] Bean Uí Chonláin, Baile an Dónalláin, who had music. (Tadhg did not know of Éamon’s reputation regarding music.) I continued to Éamon’s house and introduced myself. He enquired about Séamus Ó Duilearga, Leon Ó Broin and Colm Ó Lochlainn...