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Hanoi, September 29–October 17, 1967
- University of Massachusetts Press
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21 Hanoi, September 29–October 17, 1967 ﱘﱗﱖ Hanoi, Day 1: Friday, September 29. Arrives in Hanoi Friday September 29, 1967, Hanoi Khách san Thong-nhat (Reunification Hotel) Nous sommes arrivés! From the air could see many lights over the city—I was surprised. Also the bridge over the Red River which was bombed while the DRV delegation was en route to Prague and still not completely repaired. Therefore we came to the city from the airport (where we were greatly welcomed, with flowers and much warmth) on a road (route 5) and then a ferry. A symbolic beginning. Strong pungent smell in the air; shelter holes along the road; ferry-repair crews; U.S. floodlights searching for planes (2 more American planes downed today, we were told); many helmets and what seemed to be a fair amount of traffic on the road, fairly easy trip, it turned out. To Reuni- fication Hotel: fancy, large, very French. Dinner in our rooms tonight (Vivian and I together, guys on other floor), served by a perfectly impeccable man who undoubtedly served the French. Two huge beds with mosquito netting, much furniture in the rooms. Exhausted now, am sure I’ll sleep at least tonight. So good to be met by friends. The conference in Bratislava was an invaluable first step for us. Breakfast at 7:30 a.m.—and discussion then of our plans, program, schedule. 22 Hanoi Journal, 1967 Hanoi, Day 2: Saturday, September 30. Driving tour of the city; plan program for visit; Museum of the Vietnamese People’s Army; evening banquet and documentary films Saturday, Hanoi, 30th September 1967 Awoke early to the many noises outside—bells, bicycles, horns, but mostly the rain. It is an early city—like Phnom Penh. One important reason is the weather: to the extent that it affects bombing conditions, it is crucial. For example, the dangerous times to be outside in the city are 10 a.m. and 3–4 p.m.—at these times the sun is located in such a position that planes can fly into it more easily without being clear targets. During the day there are quick rain-showers. After breakfast (a fine European meal) we took a drive around the city. The city shows much French influence—wide streets, large spacious-looking homes, tree-lined avenues. But the effects of the war are all over; beginning with the moment we step into our cars or walk outside, we carry our heavy (Russian-made?) helmets. The buildings are old and little has been done to maintain or upgrade physical condition, in anticipation of the worst. The city is very much evacuated. The absence of children is very noticeable. The large city market is no longer in use; the city is divided into various quarters for the purpose of providing food supplies. As we drove around, we saw other signs of war: manholes which serve as “abns” (shelters); many young girls in helmets; training units; victory signs (billboards) even inside the very peaceful pagoda we visited. That was our first stop, Chūa Môt Côt (OnePillar Pagoda), 918 years old and headed by a 78-year-old bonze.21 Built in the shape of a lotus flower, it was indeed a peaceful first stop, preparation, perhaps, for what was/is to follow . . . ? We continued driving, passing the Presidential Palace, National Assembly building, and Independence Square; and our second stop (also peaceful) was Vuon Hoa Thong Nhat, Unity Park, signifying the cooperation of North-Central-South (Hanoi, Hue, Saigon) and constructed by the youth. Across the enlarged lake stands the evacuated Polytechnical Institute , built with Soviet aid. As we drove back to the hotel, we passed the most recent Hanoi bombing , on Phō Hao, 22 August—workers’ homes—purposeless bombing. 21 A Buddhist monk. [54.91.51.101] Project MUSE (2024-03-29 06:14 GMT) Hanoi, September 29–October 17, 1967 23 In retrospect, at the end of the day, the drive around was probably one of the most serene experiences we will have. Back at the hotel, Xuan Oanh22 gave us the Peace Committee’s proposed agenda for our stay: Saturday, September 30th: afternoon: Museum of Vietnamese People’s Army dinner: Vietnamese, with Peace Committee and people we met in Bratislava evening: new documentary films Sunday, October 1st: 6 a.m.: Museum of the Revolution afternoon: free 6 p.m.: Catholic Mass for those interested (bomb damage) evening: cultural performance Monday, October 2nd...