Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion

Contents

ix Contents Acknowledgments xi Introduction: Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion, 1 Ilya Parkins and Elizabeth M. Sheehan I. Fashion and Relationships among Modern Women 1. Fashioning Sapphic Architecture: Eileen Gray and 19 Radclyffe Hall, Jasmine Rault 2. A Domesticated Exoticism: Fashioning Gender in 45 Nineteenth-Century British Tea Gowns, KimberlyWahl 3. Smart Clothes at Low Prices:Alliances and Negotiations 71 in the British Interwar Secondhand Clothing Trade, Celia Marshik II. Fashion and Cultural Anxiety 4. Fear of Fashion; or, How the Coquette Got Her Bad Name, 89 Ellen Bayuk Rosenman 5. The Discerning Eye:Viewing the Mid-Victorian 103 “Modern” Woman, KaraTennant 6. “Housewife or Harlot”:Art, Fashion, and Morality in the 124 Paris Salon of 1868, Justine DeYoung x Contents III. Fashion and the Materiality of Gender 7. “Their Uniforms All Esthetic and Antiseptic”: 151 Fashioning Modern Nursing Identity, 1870–1900, Christina Bates 8. The Face of Fashion: Race and Fantasy in James 180 VanDerZee’s Photography and Jessie Fauset’s Fiction, Elizabeth M. Sheehan 9. “More Than a Garment”: Edna Ferber and the Fashioning 203 of Transnational Identity, Lori Harrison-Kahan Afterword, Rita Felski 231 Contributors 239 Index 241 ...