The Diaries of John Gregory Bourke Volume 1: November 20, 1872--July 28, 1876

Chapter 8 • A Scientific Expedition

158 HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE PLATTE,* Omaha, Nebraska, May 12, 1875 SPECIAL ORDERS, No. 57 (Extract.) * * * * * 3. Second Lieutenant John G. Bourke, 3d Cavalry, A.D.C., will report, in person, at Fort Laramie, to Lieutenant Colonel Richard I. Dodge, 23d Infantry, to accompany the Geological Expedition to the Black Hills, under special instructions from the Department Commander. The Quartermaster’s Department will furnish the necessary transportation. * * * * * BY COMMAND OF BRIGADIER-GENERAL CROOK: [Signed] George D. Ruggles Assistant Adjutant-General Chapter 8 ✦ ✦ ✦ ✦ ✦ A Scientific Expedition * This order, pasted into the diary, introduces this section of Bourke’s narrative—ed. A SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION 159 Thursday, May 13th, Left Omaha at midday, in the Pullman car “Wyoming”, with the following party bound for Cheyenne: General Crook, Captain Nickerson, General Perry and Lieutenant Stevens. Mr Chico Forster also was one of the party. Reached Cheyenne, the next day at 1.30 P.M. and proceeded to Fort Russell,1 about 3 miles out from town, where we passed the afternoon very agreeably in visiting the families of officers there stationed. General Reynolds, post commander pointed out many points of interest especially the “Burnt district,” comprising ground that had been covered by six double sets of q[uarte]rs, swept away in a moment[’]s time, in the conflagration of last December. This fire took place at 4 A.M., compelling feeble and delicate women and children to start terrorstricken from their beds, insufficiently clad, to withstand a temperature which nearly solidified mercury. Between the post and town, stands Russel [sic] depot, known as Camp Carlin from which the greater portion of supplies needed by the troops and posts in Northern Wyoming are drawn. Fort Russel [sic] stands upon a stratum of reddish gravel, which has been found in the course of excavations made in boring an Artesian well, to be over 1000 feet in depth. Crow creek furnishes an ample supply of pure water to the post and the salubrity of the climate is unrivalled. The great elevation , over 6000 feet, and the exposed situation upon a bleak and treeless plain across which the North wind frequently blows with the force of a tornado, sufficiently explain the frigidity of the atmosphere in the winter. South of the post about sixty miles off, can be seen the snow-clad crest of the ridge known as Long’s Peak, of the Rocky Mountains. Cheyenne we found to be a small R.R. town at the junction of the Kansas and Union Pacific R.R. The dining room at the Hotel at which we stayed over night was fantastically decorated with the heads of the mountain sheep, elk, black and white-tailed deer, and buffalo. Leaving Cheyenne in a Government ambulance, our route lay for 45 miles in a generally North Course to the Chug, passing over 1. Fort D.A. Russell was established in 1867 to protect workers constructing the Union Pacific. Because the fort became an important supply base, an adjacent subpost was established, officially designated Cheyenne Depot, but often referred to as Camp Carlin or Russell Depot. Cheyenne Depot was discontinued in 1890. In 1930, Fort D.A. Russell was renamed Fort Francis E. Warren. It later was transferred to the Department of the Air Force, and is now Warren Air Force Base. Frazer, Forts of the West, 184-85. 160 DEPARTMENT OF THE PLATTE: 1875–1876 the Lodge Pole and Little Bear creeks. At the Chug creek, obtained accomodations for the night at the ranch of Portuguese Philip[s], who exerted himself for our entertainment with much success. The meals spread before us, although perfectly unostentatious, were eaten with much relish; rich cream, golden home made butter, aerated biscuits, amber coffee, good ham and preserves tempted appetites already ravenous from long fasting. The next day, May 16th a drive of 40 miles brought us to Fort Laramie,2 on the Laramie river, half a mile or so from its confluence with the North Platte. The country passed over since leaving Cheyenne , is an undulating plain, well watered but bare of trees. The grass seems very thin and to be a species of the gramma of Arizona. The settlements between Cheyenne & Fort Laramie are increasing steadily in strength, and are to all appearances composed of a superior class of people. At Fort Laramie, we found General Bradley, the District commander , and Colonel R.I. Dodge, 23[rd] Infy, who is to command...