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xi acknowledgments This book, like any good meal, has benefited from many busy hands and keen minds. From its inception, Sueann Caulfield helped me to craft and consistently improve the manuscript, generously reading countless drafts and providing sage advice at every turn. For over a decade now, she and Rebecca J. Scott have served as incomparable mentors, inspiring me with both their scholarship and their examples. Jeremy Adelman, Gillian FeeleyHarnick , María Cotera, and Jeffrey Pilcher have likewise been there from the beginning, helping me to sharpen my analysis and push my project in fruitful directions. So too, my fellow Latin Americanists and Women’s Studies scholars at the University of Michigan (especially Sarah Arvey, Mónica Burguera, Tamar Caroll, Marie Cruz, Erika Gasser, Juan Hernandéz, Kathy López, Edward Murphy, and Tamara Walker) have provided important advice and friendship. Historians Gabrielle Hecht, Nancy Rose Hunt, and Carol Karlsen, as well as my friend Verónica Miranda, also merit special mention for their early suggestions and support. It has been my good fortune to find a vibrant and welcoming intellectual community in Argentina as well. Paola Alonso, Mirta Lobato, and Hilda Sabato provided valuable feedback on my preliminary project in 2002, recommending that I might find a home in the Gender Institute (IIEGE) at the Universidad de Buenos Aires. The director of this institute, Dora Barrancos,warmlywelcomedmeintoitsscholarlycommunityshortlythereafter . Ever since, she has graciously shared her advice, her experiences, and her contacts with me. Through the IIEGE, I befriended fellow historians Andrea Andújar, Valeria Pita, and Cristiana Schettini Pereira, and over the past decade we have explored numerous archives, combed book fairs, and enjoyed lively mealtime discussions together. I also had the good fortune to meet historians Paula Bontempo, Isabella Cosse, Karina Ramacciotti, and Alejandra Vassallo, with whom I have enjoyed close collaboration and friendship ever since. I am also grateful to Paula Lucía Aguilar, Marcelo Álvarez, Eduardo Archetti, Anahi Ballent, Claudio Belini, María José Billarou, Paula Caldo, Gastón Lazarri, Oscar Chamosa, Eduardo Elena, Katharine French-Fuller, Francisco Liernur, Valeria Manzano, Natalia Milanesio, José Moya, Inés Pérez, Luisa Pinotti, Ricardo Salvatore, Carlos Ulanovsky, and Oscar Traversa for sharing their work and ideas about food, home economics, consumption, and domestic work in Argentina. Fernando xii Acknowledgments Rocchi deserves special mention for his advice and for putting me in touch with the newspaper archive at La Nación and at the television cooking channel Utilísima. I am also grateful to my friend Carolina Brunstein for facilitating my research at El Clarín’s newspaper archive. For her assistance with my research, I thank Gabriela Gómez, and for their transcriptions of oral histories, I thank María José Valdez, Carolina González Velasco, and Horacio Mosquera. To put it simply, this project would not have been possible were it not for the collaboration of Marcela Massut, the granddaughter of Doña Petrona C. de Gandulfo. In May 2002, Marcela arrived at our first interview at a café in Buenos Aires with an old suitcase filled with some of her grandmother ’s papers and photographs. In the ensuing years, she has generously invited me on countless occasions to her catering business and to her home to comb through her grandmother’s materials. She also has shared her personal stories with me in three formal interviews and in many more informal conversations over lunch, a cup of tea, or a round of mate. I thank Marcela for her generosity and her permission to reproduce her grandmother’s materials here. I also thank Jorge Tartarini for graciously sharing his recent high-quality scans of much of this material. Approximately eighty other Argentines generously shared their oral histories with me. I will be forever grateful to them (the majority of whose names I have shortened to protect their privacy) for telling me their stories. Several of my early interviews were facilitated by sociologist Susana Batista. I also wish to thank Franci La Greca for inviting me to discuss food history in the oral history workshop she regularly convenes on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. In addition, I express my deep appreciation to Sergio Raimondi and the staff at the Museo del Puerto Ingeniero White for organizing a magical week filled with interviews and a debate on Doña Petrona. My ability to write this book was also enhanced by the generosity of other archivists and friends. In particular, I wish to recognize archivists Marta Inés Orgueria at...

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