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chapter two First Term of Service Nan and Lampang, 1912–1919 san francisco—We are on our way, by land and sea. This is a beautiful city. There are still traces of the earthquake damage, but the stores are very fine. We are busy with meetings and with visiting retired missionaries, such as Dr. and Mrs. Denman, who were stationed in Siam for some years. They have so much to tell us. Today Dr. Denman took me with him on his round of calls. He wanted me to see a case of malaria. It was my first, but he says it will not be my last. He explained the symptoms and the treatment. Today we sail. We are booked on the Mongolia, together with Dr. and Mrs. Beach and Dr. and Mrs. Lyon. It is the ship’s maiden voyage. My wardrobe is not extensive, but it is enough. I will have some things made in Hong Kong. Our accommodations are first class; the mission board is generous. In our cabin we find flowers, fruit, and candy sent by our friends in Cincinnati. There is also a letter from Dr. Watson, with a check. Our leave-taking is quiet, for our friends and relatives are far away. Lott’s mother, who is in her seventies and still lives in York, will be anxious, but she is proud of her son. My sister Elizabeth has sent us a letter wishing us well. the docks of hawaii—We are met by pretty Hawaiian girls who put leis, long strands of flowers, around our necks. The perfume is overpowering. The whole city is a flower garden. We left the boat and went to lunch at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel and then to the beach. My husband is in his element—he loves the water and is a goodswimmer.HeandDr.Beachhavegoneoutonsurfboards.They ride the waves in to the beach. We ladies take in the scenery and the 9 music and watch these wonderful Hawaiians playing in the ocean. They are like seagulls, poised and unafraid. Three days out of Yokohama—We are in the tail of a typhoon. It is so wild and awesome. Fortunately, neither of us is ever seasick. The waves are pounding on the upper deck; the bigger ones go right over the captain’s bridge. It is night now. I have stayed out as long as possible , watching the storm, but it is getting too dangerous, and I must go inside. It is not possible to sleep. The ship rolls over so far that one can look straight down, and then, after an agonizingly long time, it rolls back, and one can look straight up. fifteenth day at sea—We are in Japan. It is lovely—exquisite, I may say. Every bit of land is cultivated as carefully as one would a garden . The green of the young rice plants is beyond description, a vivid color like no other green I have ever seen. The hills are planted all the way to the top with hill rice. Coolies carry water to the top, but the hill rice does not need as much water as the field rice, I am told. The temples are very ornate. The priests are in yellow robes. The people on the streets and in the shops also wear beautifully embroidered robes. We are in a great hurry to go to the shops while the ship is loading and unloading. I am anxious to look at dishes, especially tea sets. We went into one china shop and were asked to sit down at a table. Tea was served, and dishes of every color and pattern were brought out and shown to us. I have chosen a deep sapphire blue with cherry blossoms inside the cups and on the saucers. We are glad to be off the ship, as they are taking on coal, and the coal dust penetrates everything. The coal is passed up a human chain in baskets. Many people in the chain are women, and nearly every one of them has a baby strapped to her back. All day, without stopping , these people pass the coal baskets up the chain. shanghai—The ship anchored at the mouth of the river, as it cannot go up to the city. All who wish to go ashore must go in a launch. Lott will go, and so will most of our party, but I am afraid it might be too tiring for me. My baby will be born...

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