An American Girl in the Hawaiian Islands: Letters of Carrie Prudence Winter, 1890-1893

10. Big Island Summer July 3–August 26, 1892

204 10 Big Island Summer July 3–August 26, 1892 July 3, 1892, Island of Hawaii near Volcanoe Kilauea Dear Carl, I left you last Tuesday morning, finishing my packing with the aid of dear little Zelie.1 Word came to me indirectly at lunch time that Mr. Oliver Emerson was going on the trip also. At the last moment he rushed aboard with his arms full of papers. I must tell you a little about him. I have known him slightly ever since I have been here. He is one you are likely to meet. He is a minister, about 45 yrs. old and holds under the A.B.C.F.M. a kind of general superintendence Lilla Estelle Appleton, Kīlauea Volcano, Hawai‘i, 1893. over the native churches. I think the families have always lived here though receiving fine educations abroad. There are 4 brothers and all have peculiarities and it’s rather the fashion in Honolulu to make fun of Mr. Oliver. I long ago took rather a fancy to him. When you get him a little off his guard and he is talking to you, he seems to me to have a beautiful light in his clear honest eyes and a quick appreciation of fine points. That reminds me of you so I like him. He is a little apt however to fly back on his guard again and leave you in some ridiculous situation. He is generally supposed, truly I think, to be devoted to Miss Margaret Brewer. In fact Miss Brewer confided to me some about him. It seems doubtful if she will ever marry him though I can’t see why she shouldn’t accept his love and be most happy in it. He is the most interesting man to me in the party. He saw that my things were taken to my state-room and in a few moments, I followed for the Kinau began to rock up and down in a most disgusting fashion . The men outside said it was a “strong trade.” All across the channel till in the lee of Molokai, I was ill. That was from 2 to 6. Then I plucked up courage to ring for some water and crackers. When the steward came I found Mr. Emerson still had me in mind for he came and stuck his head in the door to ask how I was, tell me where we were, suggest poi, fished a lime out of his pocket and sliced it up for me. I supposed he would let a woman die before he would enter her state-room. His little mothering did me a world of good. About 9:00, we came to anchor at Lahaina and I went out on deck to enjoy the fresh air. I was quite well then. I went to bed and to sleep to wake at one when we stopped at Wailea Bay where the rest of the party was to join us. We kept awake till the ship anchored at Makena and then slept till day-light. We didn’t know that the ship had lain there in harbor all night long till we were out and dressed and the ship was just starting across the channel to this island. I was talking with Dr. Lyons. He said “the channel is very rough this morning.” We soon found it so. I stood it as long as I could and then crawled into my berth again. Two more hours of sea-sickness and we were anchored at the northern part of Hawaii. I was feeling all right again. Drank a bowl of beef-tea, dressed, went down to see Mrs. Gulick, Irene and Gertrude and we were soon all on deck. Everyone had been ill. Mr. Emerson goes to all the islands twice a year and he said he had never made so rough a passage. By evening I was the only one of the ladies who was not feeling miserable again. I never felt better. I promenaded with Mr. Gulick and when the beautiful BIG ISLAND SUMMER 205 206 AN AMERICAN GIRL stars and new moon came out and the ship had weighed anchor and we started for a little town on the leeward side of the island, I enjoyed a long pleasant tete-a-tete with Mr. Emerson on deck. About 9, the ship turned back and we were in...