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Foie Gras Adventure Foie gras has been treasured for centuries—enjoyed by ancient pharaohs and enshrined in French law. Its mellifluous name rolls off the tongue like warm butter off a china plate. Some say it may be the first gourmet food invented by humans. Yet its back story is not for the faint of heart. Foie gras translates as “fat liver,” and for most fans of foie gras, the technicalities of how this delicate remnant of duck ends up on the plate is better left to the pros. What makes it memorable is its taste and texture. Here are a few descriptive samples from the many Internet bloggers who have struggled to capture its elusive character. “Like the crispy fat on the edge of a grilled steak,” writes one. “Rich and buttery,” says another. Yet though its charms are hard to pin down, everything else about foie gras is clear—or is it? Time to Chew the Fat The truth is that foie gras is the result of force feeding ducks or geese for several weeks to plump up their livers. At the close of this gastronomic orgy, the bird is slaughtered and the foie gras is harvested.This procedure, called gavage, has produced a classic and noble foodstuff for at least 4,000 years. Chef Anthony Bourdain calls it “one of the ten most important flavors in gastronomy.” Yet animal-rights advocates have condemned gavage as cruel, and numerous nations have now banned foie gras production, including Germany, the United Kingdom, and Switzerland. In several U.S. cities and states, there has been ongoing pressure to ban foie gras from restaurant menus–among them San Diego and Chicago and the entire state of California. Although Slow Food USA has not taken an official stance on foie gras, the International Slow Food website does protect and promote French foie gras because it is important part of that nation’s history and culture. Recently, as I headed north from Princeton toward the rolling hills of Sullivan County, New York, I found myself thinking about the complexities of foie 10  98  gras. At last count, there are only four production houses in the United States, and I was heading for one of them: Hudson Valley Foie Gras, the nation’s largest producer , processing 4,000 to 6,000 ducks a week. It is my local source for foie gras as well as the source for most fine-dining restaurants on the east coast. At Tre Piani, we are proud to serve Hudson Valley’s product. No matter that we specialize in Italian cuisine—foie gras is a classic foodstuff and is a jewel in the crown of any fine-dining experience. The ancient Egyptians are credited with first discovering foie gras. They had observed that ducks gorged themselves to fatten up for long migratory flights. And when those birds were killed for food, the pharaoh’s chefs noticed that the fatty livers looked particularly succulent. But France is the country that has adopted foie gras as its own cultural icon. There was a day when any four-star French restaurant would have been called unworthy of the name without foie gras on the menu. Yet it has always been tricky to prepare. Much as I support and encourage the tradition of home cooking, the preparation of foie gras is extremely technical; and unless you know what you’re doing, you will end up with a greasy mess (although, for the undaunted, I’ve added some good recipes at the end of this chapter). Because I love foie gras yet also understand the controversies surrounding it, I’m eager to see Hudson Valley Foie Gras in action. This award-winning farm is a pacesetter in the use of humane and high-tech production methods. What’s more, its owners are true lovers of the delicacy and are committed to producing a highquality product made from animals that have been treated in a civilized and enlightened way. The company is nestled in the hills of Sullivan County, about twelve miles from the site of the legendary 1969 Woodstock rock festival. Today, you’ll find bed-and-breakfasts, hunting and fishing camps, lakeside views, farms, and antique shops. And you’ll also find two guys who’ve set out to create a humane and responsible business that would supply customers with a great culinary classic. The landscape profile of Hudson Valley Foie Gras is so unobtrusive that, when you arrive, you...

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