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acknowledgments xv I am grateful to many individuals without whom, as the saying goes, this book could not have been written. They helped with translations, found books and illustrations for me,and read and corrected various drafts of my manuscript.They also played the important,if more subtle,role of offering cheer and encouragement along the way.I value each and every one. They include Ken Albala, Gary Allen, Jackie and Parviz Amirhor, Rob and the late Alice Arndt, Ubaldo di Benedetto, Madonna Berry, Marilyn Brass,Sheila Brass,Joe Carlin,Kyri Claflin,Roz Cummins,Ivan Day,Anne Faulkner, Norma Gahl, Barbara Haber, Susan Jasse, Sheryl Julian, Rosemary Kafka,Janet Katz,Lynn Kay,Patricia Kelly,Daniel MacLeod,Douglas and Lola MacLeod, Ellen Messer, Doris Millan, Deb McDonald, Sandra Oliver, Beth Riely, Susan Rossi-Wilcox, Lynn Schweikart, Andrew Smith, Nancy Stutzman,Agni Thurner,Joyce Toomre,Barbara Ketcham Wheaton, Joan and Jay Wickersham, Winnie Williams, and of course, my husband , Daniel Coleman. Librarians are special individuals. I am indebted to those at the Boston Athenaeum, the Boston Public Library, the New York Public Library , the Winterthur Library,the Library of Congress,Harvard’s Botany and Houghton Libraries, and above all, everyone at the Schlesinger Library , most notably Marylène Altieri and Sarah Hutcheon. I also thank the ice cream people who were so generous with their time andeventheiricecream.SteveHerrell,founderof Steve’sIceCreamandnow owner of Herrell’s Ice Cream based in Northampton, Massachusetts; Gus Rancatore, owner of Toscanini’s Ice Cream in Cambridge, Massachusetts; Stephanie Reitano, of Capogiro in Philadelphia; Amy Miller, of Amy’s Ice Cream shops in Texas; Torrance Kopfer, of Cold Fusion Gelato in Newport, Rhode Island;and Gabrielle Carbone,of the Bent Spoon in Princeton,New Jersey. The members of my writers’ workshop have meant more to me than I can express.They are Myrna Kaye,Roberta Leviton,Barbara Mende,Sabra Morton, Shirley Moskow, Beth Surdut, Molly Turner, Rose Yesu, and the late Doris Luck Pullen. Everyone at the University of California Press—Randy Heyman, Kate Marshall, Laura Harger, Bonita Hurd, and Mari Coates—has been enormously helpful to me. Finally, I appreciate the guidance and support I received from Darra Goldstein and Sheila Levine. They are editors—and individuals—par excellence. Thank you all. xvi / Acknowledgments ...

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