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“What Tsvyatko just told you happened later,” said our shy Ilcho, “but I know that Bai Ganyo was in Prague on a previous occasion. He was there for a long time and sold quite a bit of rose oil. Would you like me to tell you about it?” “If it’s about Bai Ganyo, don’t ask; tell!” we all replied. 2 OK, then listen. Bai Ganyo arrives in Prague from Vienna. He gets off the train at the station, shoulders his disagi, and walks out into the street. The cabbies descend on him to offer their services, and he dips his chin down, Bulgarian style,to signal no.They interpret his gesture as an affirmative nod, and a cab pulls up right in front of him. Bai Ganyo gets mad, stares wide eyed, and makes angry gestures. A policeman sees him and makes the cabbies back off.Bai Ganyo is wondering how he can find out where our famous historian Jirechek lives.24 Jirechek has lived in Bulgaria; he loves the Bulgarians ; Bai Ganyo will go to his place. “Good day.” “Good day to you.” And maybe he’ll invite him to stay at his place. Why spend money on a hotel? While he was thinking along those lines, a porter in a red cap came and stood in front of him and offered to carry his disagi. Bai Ganyo asked him if he knew where Jirechek lived. The porter answered in the negative but expressed the hope that he’d be able to find him and held out his hand to take the disagi. Bai Ganyo didn’t give them up, in part because his muskali  Bai Ganyo at Jirechek’s  24. Josif Konstantin Jirechek (–), Czech historian and professor at the University of Prague and the University of Vienna, was a world-famous specialist on the Balkan Slavs. His History of the Bulgarians (published in Czech and German in ) was the first scholarly study of Bulgarian history. He lived in Bulgaria from  to  and served there as minister of education and in other important posts. were inside and“might get swiped,” and in part because he saw that the guy was nicely dressed, and who knew how much he’d try to fleece him for. “Your Grace, you go in front and I’ll follow behind,” said Bai Ganyo politely. “Don’t worry about the disagi; I’ll carry them.” This politeness on Bai Ganyo’s part was calculated. He figured it would make the porter well disposed toward him and at the same time show that he, Bai Ganyo, was not some rich important man, so the guy wouldn’t try to fleece him. They walk along and ask at each cross street where Jirechek lives. Finally, someone realizes that they’re looking for Professor Jirechek and tells them where to go to ask, and they keep asking till they find him. Bai Ganyo gives the porter a hearty“Thank you very much” and enters Jirechek’s apartment. “Oho! Good day. Bai Jirechek, how’s it goin’? You doin’OK?”exclaims Bai Ganyo in his most friendly manner as he enters the master of the house’s study. The latter shakes hands with him in surprise, invites him to sit, and curses his memory, which can’t recall who this kind friend is. “Don’t you recognize me?” Bai Ganyo adds helpfully, mixing formal and informal modes of address.“Were you not a minister in Sofia?”“Yes.”“Well, I’m from there, too!” Bai Ganyo concludes triumphantly. “So we’re fellow townsmen, so to speak, heh, heh, heh, and how! Do you remember the article in the newspaper Slavyanin?”25 “Yes, yes, I remember,” answers Jirechek in a reserved and condescending tone of voice. “Oh boy, did they ever smear you! But don’t you worry about a thing; don’t pay them no never mind. I really stuck up for you. They said‘Jirechek this’ and‘Jirechek that.’ But I said,‘Excuse me,’ I said,‘it’s not like that.’” Jirechek knows Bulgarians well, and so he’s not at all surprised at Bai Ganyo’s familiarity. The conversation continues for several minutes in this vein and then passes to more practical matters. Bai Ganyo praises the apartment of his host, hints broadly that “after all, there’s even room for a guest to stay here.” He speaks of Bulgarian hospitality and expresses sorrow that “you see, others aren’t like us...

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