The Mexico City Reader

Contents

Contents Illustrations xi Acknowledgments xiii Permissions xv Introduction: Delirious Mexico City 3 Rubén Gallo 1 Mexico City on Paper Mexico, City of Paper 33 Gonzalo Celorio 2 Places Insurgentes 55 Fabrizio Mejía Madrid Zona Rosa, 1965 78 Vicente Leñero San Rafael 86 Gerardo Deniz Coyoacán I 93 Guillermo Sheridan Coyoacán II 96 Jorge Ibargüengoitia División del Norte 99 Julieta García González Plaza Satélite 104 José Joaquín Blanco vii Las Lomas I 108 José Joaquín Blanco Las Lomas II 114 Daniela Rossell 3 The Metro The Metro 123 Juan Villoro Voyage to the Center of the City 133 Ricardo Garibay Metro Insurgentes 139 José Joaquín Blanco The Metro: A Voyage to the End of the Squeeze 143 Carlos Monsiváis 4 Monuments Monuments 149 Guillermo Sheridan La Diana 152 Vicente Leñero 5 Eating and Drinking The Chinese Café 165 José de la Colina Armando’s Tortas 169 Jorge Ibargüengoitia Vips in the Early Morning 172 José Joaquín Blanco Nightlife 175 Carlos Monsiváis 6 Urban Renewal/Urban Disasters Call the Doctor 195 Jorge Ibargüengoitia Tacubaya, 1978 198 José Joaquín Blanco viii  Avenida Álvaro Obregón, 1979 202 José Joaquín Blanco San Juan de Letrán 206 José Joaquín Blanco Ambulantes 210 Francis Alÿs Cuauhtémoc 222 José Joaquín Blanco “Who’s There?” The Art of Opening and Closing the Door 227 Jorge Ibargüengoitia Klaxons and the Man 230 Jorge Ibargüengoitia 7 The Earthquake The Earthquake 237 Elena Poniatowska 8 Maids Maids I 249 Augusto Monterroso Maids II 251 Guadalupe Loaeza Chapultepec and the Maids 256 José Joaquín Blanco 9 Corruption and Bureaucracy Trimmins for the Comanche 263 Ricardo Garibay In the Same Boat 266 Ricardo Garibay The University 270 Jonathan Hernández 10 The Margins Garbage 291 Alma Guillermoprieto Contents ix SEMEFO: The Morgue 309 Cuauhtémoc Medina Bibliography 327 Contributors 331 Index of Mexico City Streets 337 General Index 341 x  ...