B Street: The Notorious Playground of Coulee Dam

Introduction: The Grand Coulee

XIX INTRODUCTION: THE GRAND COULEE A determined wind swept up the coulee, moving dust and debris as it went. Small whirlwinds formed here and there, defined by the dust they carried. They zigzagged up the sloping hill from one spot to another to the bench above. They lingered briefly, whipping sagebrush and wild grass about them. Then they would continue on and die as quickly as they were born. Now and then, jackrabbits appeared and then loped off in great strides with eyes ever alert and long ears straining to hear threatening sounds from coyotes looking for prey. As they ran, they sometimes scared up coveys of sage hens that swiftly flew out of harm’s way. Rattlesnakes, looking for prey, slithered down to the ravine en route to the protective canyon below that bordered the swift- flowing Columbia River. Ground squirrels were positioned as sentinels in front of their places of residence, alert for any apparent danger. Birds also seemed to prefer the tree-covered canyon. They flew quickly above the bench and the sloping hill, stopping only to catch insects that thrived on the sagebrush. Over the centuries, these activities occurred with little change within this community of beings. Sagebrush and wild grass dominated the hill, and rocks peeked out of the soil here and there. Minute caravans of insects busily scurried off to somewhere more to their liking. The sloping hill and bench had always been a thoroughfare for living things searching for a friendlier and more accommodating place to spend their time. The bench above was nondescript, as it had been for centuries. It was hardly noticeable, lying at the base of hills to the northwest just above the place where a great dam would one day be constructed . A ravine below bordered the sloping hill that led to the bench. It was inviting and took travelers down to Rattlesnake Canyon and the river below. Short, stout, disfigured pine trees stood alone or in small groups surrounding the canyon. They looked as if they had always been there. One could imagine that these ruggedlooking trees had struggled for life and won the right to be in that challenging landscape. Over the centuries, hunters and gatherers of different tribes quietly moved with the seasons, and other beings, like deer and coyotes, carved subtle trails along the ravine as they traveled east or west. During the late 1700s, white fur trappers traveled these same trails on their way to the northeastern part of what is now Washington State and, farther north, British Columbia. The wildlife that lived there was a community within itself and had adjusted to the area. This diverse community was made up of beings that had adapted to their place in life and treated it with care and respect. When white people came through the area for the first time, one could sense the beginning of change. These driven and determined beings would view their surroundings unaware of what had happened before them. They would not believe that a community of others could live for centuries without disturbing the natural balance and beauty of this unusual landscape. During the 1870s and 1880s, more white settlers came in their XX INTRODUCTION: THE GRAND COULEE wagons, driving small herds of livestock along the ravine as they traveled down to the river below. The nearly invisible trails became ravaged and torn as iron wheels and the foreign hoofs of unfamiliar beasts cut through and trampled the rich grass. Once across the river, the settlers sought land for building homes and established meager settlements, creating change that would eventually disrupt the beautiful landscape. A few settlers remained in the southern end of the Grand Coulee near what is now Coulee City. They tried working the rich soil but soon realized that they needed water. They hoped that reclamation would compensate for “nature’s failure.” Some of those early people sensed that the Columbia River might one day provide water, and many farmers would reap the benefits of the excellent farmland. Later, other white men came to settle the land. Minor skirmishes with Indians in the area slowed settlement. After the government subdued the Indians, more settlers came to the Columbia Plateau. A number brought cattle and sheep. They also introduced wheat in the Soap Lake and Moses Lake areas, but in time, the moisture gave out and the organic content of the soil...