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Molas, the distinctive blouses made and worn by Kuna women in Panama, are collected by thousands of enthusiasts as well as by anthropological museums all over the world. They are recognized everywhere as an identifier of the Kuna people and also of Panama. This book, based on original research, explores the origin of the mola in the early twentieth century, how it became part of the everyday dress of Kuna women, and its role in creating Kuna identity.

Images drawn from more than twenty museums as well as private collections show the development of designs and techniques and highlight changes in the garment as an item of indigenous fashion. Applying an interdisciplinary approach—fusing historical, ethnographic, and material culture studies—author Diana Marks contributes to ongoing debates on cultural authenticity, the invention of traditions, and issues of gender and politics.

Molas, the distinctive blouses made and worn by Kuna women in Panama, are collected by thousands of enthusiasts as well as by anthropological museums all over the world. They are recognized everywhere as an identifier of the Kuna people and also of Panama. This book, based on original research, explores the origin of the mola in the early twentieth century, how it became part of the everyday dress of Kuna women, and its role in creating Kuna identity.

Images drawn from more than twenty museums as well as private collections show the development of designs and techniques and highlight changes in the garment as an item of indigenous fashion. Applying an interdisciplinary approach—fusing historical, ethnographic, and material culture studies—author Diana Marks contributes to ongoing debates on cultural authenticity, the invention of traditions, and issues of gender and politics.

Table of Contents

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  1. Front Cover
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  1. Half Title, Title Page, Copyright, Dedication
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  1. Contents
  2. pp. vii-viii
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  1. List of Illustrations
  2. pp. ix-x
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  1. Preface
  2. pp. xi-xii
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  1. Acknowledgments
  2. pp. xiii-xiv
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  1. Notes on the Text
  2. pp. xv-xvi
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  1. Introduction: People, Place, and History
  2. pp. 1-42
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  1. Part One: Origin of the Mola
  2. pp. 43-44
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  1. 1: Explaining the Origin of the Mola Blouse
  2. pp. 45-64
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  1. 2: Creating Molas
  2. pp. 65-90
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  1. Part Two: Motivation to Sew Molas
  2. pp. 91-92
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  1. 3: The Mola as Worn: A Visual Assessment
  2. pp. 93-134
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  1. 4: Motivation: The Process of Mola Making
  2. pp. 135-148
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  1. 5: Motivation: The Benefits of Mola Making
  2. pp. 149-166
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  1. 6: Motivation: Creating and Maintaining the Kuna Nation
  2. pp. 167-188
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  1. Afterword
  2. pp. 189-192
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  1. Appendix A: Mola Sewing Terms and Techniques
  2. pp. 193-204
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  1. Appendix B: Characteristics of the Museum Reference Collection
  2. pp. 205-218
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  1. Notes
  2. pp. 219-236
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  1. References
  2. pp. 237-246
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  1. Index
  2. pp. 247-254
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  1. Back Cover
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