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Common Knowledge 9.2 (2003) 355-358



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Between Wars

Colin Richmond


Day One

The small party sailed out of Stralsund and through the Strelasund into the Kubitzer Bodden anchoring off Rudenhof for a light lunch. In the afternoon they sailed through the strait between Ummanz and Lieshow into the Koselower See anchoring for the night immediately off Teschvitz. The evening was spent at a gasthofin Gingst. There was a late return to the boat.

Day Two

Negotiating the narrow Gahlitzer Strom in the light of a misty dawn was not easy but they made the Udarser Wiek without incident. Taking provisions on board at Schaprode and purchasing a new night lantern at nearby Poggenhof they sailed northward to Seehof and then eastward into the Rassower Strom until passing the Wittower Fähre they sailed into the Breetzer Bodden. That evening they were off Breege where they made anchor. After supper aboard they walked along the Shaabe to Kegelinberg.

Day Three

In the morning they sailed south into the Grosser Jasmunder Bodden as far as Lietzow then turned west to lie up at Ralswiek where they went ashore to eat in [End Page 355] the hotel at Buchberg. It was a lively lunch and all agreed that they had got to know one another much better after two days aboard. Was it the wine talking? After a siesta they set sail northward and explored the Tetzitzer See until the sun began to go down. They anchored off Grubnow and turned in early after the lightest of light suppers.

Day Four

They were away before daybreak retracing the route of Day Two as far as the Rassower Strom. They departed that stretch of water without entering the Buger Boden as some had wanted to do and with the Buker Hagen to starboard entered the Libben resolved to make the circuit of Hiddensee before the sun went down. This they only three-quarters achieved and were obliged to call it a day when they reached Plogshagen. Here they dropped anchor and somewhat wearily consumed the remainder of the beer and the remnants of sausage they had brought with them from Stralsund.

Day Five

Rising late they weighed anchor and with a refreshing breeze sailed into the Libben. They were too early at Dranske and somewhat regretfully agreed not to make a call there for provisions. It was a mistake as arriving at Kap Arkona in midafternoon they found that it was a strenuous walk to Putgarten in order to replenish their store of food and drink. The museum at Arkona and the cliffs of Jaromarsburg were their compensation. In the evening they sailed to Juliusruth and anchored there so that they might dine at a recommended hostelry in Altenkirchen. This they did once again overdoing both eating and drinking. The hike back to the boat was long remembered by them all as hilarious not to say gleeful.

Day Six

They sailed southeast during the morning giving both Glowe and Lohme a miss even though both villages looked inviting. Dropping anchor off the Grosse Stubbenkammer they partook of a quick lunch. Afterward they explored both Grosse and Kleine Stubbenkammer roaming inland as far as Herthaburg and the Kollicker Ort. Tired by their exertions and after some differences of opinion they sailed on southward to anchor for the night off Sassnitz where they enjoyed a late supper. [End Page 356]

Day Seven

After an enormous breakfast at a wirthaus on the seafront at Klocker Ufer they hired a car and drove to Sagard which they looked around before driving on to Borchtitz. Here they left the car and explored on foot the railway sidings at Wostervitz and the ferry port of Neu Mukran. They watched while a boat from Memel came in and another left for Trelleborg. Returning to their car and driving back to Sassnitz it was after seven before they sat down to dine. Having missed lunch they were famished and did justice to all that was heaped before them at what they had been told was the best hotel in the place.

Day Eight

They once again rose later...

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