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From: The Turkey

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An American Story ANDREW F. SMITH The Turkey Turkey Fondly regarded as the centerpiece of family Thanksgiving reunions, the turkey is a cultural symbol as well as a multi-billiondollar industry. As a bird, dinner, commodity, and national icon the turkey has become as American as the bald eagle, with which it competed for supremacy on the nation’s insignia. Food historian Andrew F. Smith’s sweeping and multifaceted history of Meleagris gallopavo separates fact from fiction, serving as both a solid historical reference and a fascinating general read. With characteristic wit and insatiable curiosity, Smith presents the turkey in ten courses, beginning with the bird itself (actually, several species of it) in the wild. The Turkey subsequently includes discussions of Turkey subsequently includes discussions of Turkey practically every aspect of the icon, including its arrival in early America, how it came to be called “turkey,” its domestication and mating habits, the expansion of the bird’s territory into Europe, conditions in modern turkey processing plants, and the surprising boom-or-bust cycles in turkey husbandry. The bird’s ascension to holiday mainstay—and the techniques of stuffing—are also discussed. As one of the easiest foods to cook, the turkey’s culinary possibilities have been widely explored if little noted. The second half of this book is a collection of more than a hundred historical and modern turkey recipes from across America and Europe. With details on making everything from sandwiches to salmagundi, The Turkey provides a look back at the varied The Turkey provides a look back at the varied The Turkey appetites of our ancestors and gives seasoned cooks an opportunity to reintroduce a familiar food in previously forgotten ways. andrew f. smith is a freelance writer who teaches culinary history and professional food writing at the New School in Manhattan. He is the author of many books, including The Tomato in America and The Tomato in America and The Tomato in America The Peanut, and is coauthor of Real American Food. He is also the Real American Food. He is also the Real American Food editor-in-chief of the Oxford Encyclopedia on Food and Drink in America and serves as chair Food and Drink in America and serves as chair Food and Drink in America of the Culinary Trust, the philanthropic arm of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). He can be reached at his Website, www.andrewfsmith.com Jacket art from a postcard (ca. 1909) in the author’s collection. “I’ve met a lot of turkeys in my life, but it wasn’t until I read Andy Smith’s book that I finally began to understand them.” — BURT WOLF, public television journalist The Turkey An American Story ANDREW F. SMITH C U L I N A RY H I S T O RY / C O O K I NG SMITH THE TURKEY ILLINOIS “Andy Smith tells us how Meleagris gallopavo—turkey to you—traveled from the New World to the Old after Columbus’s voyages of discovery, got its name, was cooked in sixteenth and seventeenth century Europe, supplanted the goose in England on festive tables, went wild in America until it disappeared, and finally ended up on the American table especially at Thanksgiving. Along the way, he demolishes a few popular assumptions, fills us in on the development of the modern popular breeds, and traces the progression of preparing turkeys for sale from the ‘New York Style’ (defeathered but whole) to the more recent ‘ready to cook.’ We learn about the unexpected connection between turkeys and TV dinners, how we came to talk turkey, and why we make wishes on wishbones. Andy details the reestablishment of wild stocks and heritage breeds and then piles up recipes, mostly historic ones, for cooking turkey. Here are answers to all the turkey questions you ever had, and some you didn’t.” — SANDRA OLIVER, publisher/editor of Food History News “The Turkey pulls together an impressive array of historical sources into an engaging, in-depth survey of the natural, culinary, and ‘social’ history of the turkey in the United States.” — KATHLEEN CURTIN, author of Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving Recipes and History from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie A volume in The Food Series University of Illinois Press Urbana and Chicago www.press.uillinois.edu isbn 0–252–03163–6 ,!7IA2F2-adbgdc!:t;K;k;K;k ...


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