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279 Notes Chapter 1 1. Two major incidents occurred over the course of my fieldwork that raised general alarm. First, the threat of mad cow disease spreading from Northern Europe raised troubling questions about the safety of the food supply. The second incident involved a scandal in which it was revealed that a Belgian company had been pumping animal feed contaminated with dioxins throughout the EU food chain. Many Rhodians I knew promptly dumped the contents of their cupboards and refrigerators; shopkeepers, hoping to reassure their customers, posted signs declaring the local origins of their foodstuffs; and mothers, trying to protect their children, snapped up the limited supply of (presumably) grass-fed Rhodian dairy products as soon as they appeared in the shops. 2. “Ermia” is a pseudonym, as are the names of all the people I interviewed for this book. 3. However intensified today, as Susan Sutton’s extensive research has shown, such traffic is far from a recent phenomenon. See especially S. Sutton 1999, 2000. 4. Recent anthropological research has also addressed such diverse medical healthrelated topics as organ donation (Papagaroufali 1999, 2002), psychiatry (Blue 1993), and the evil-eye complex (Veikou 1998). Chapter 2 1. As is the custom on Rhodes and elsewhere in Greece, I refer to women and men senior to me by the titles “Kiria” and “Kirios.” 2. Hostility and conflict often characterize relations between the Greek archeological service and the inhabitants of sites that have been judged to be “historic.” For a detailed case study, see Herzfeld 1991. 3. Tourists from the United States and Canada do not figure into this local taxonomy, either because they are greatly outnumbered by other tourists or because, at least in the case of Americans, the majority come on cruise ships and stay for only a day or less. 4. The true figure was probably much higher, because Rhodians, like Greeks generally, 280 Notes to Pages 51–64 tend to underreport personal income, a practice made possible by the robust parallel economy in which many people participate (see Koliopoulos and Veremis 2002, 177). 5. Perhaps the best-known film representation of such fantasies is Shirley Valentine, whose protagonist has since become a familiar feature of British popular culture (Ware 1997). After a single day on the island of Mykonos, which she describes as “the far side of paradise,” Shirley claims to “hardly recognize” herself. This transformation has little to do with her fling with a local kamaki, she assures a disapproving friend: “The only holiday romance I’ve had is with myself.” Lawrence Durrell uses almost identical language when he describes a sojourn on Corfu as ending with the “discovery of yourself” (cited in Roessel 2002, 272). 6. Cross-cultural marriage between foreign women and Greek men, largely ignored by anthropologists to date (but see Smith 2002), has been the subject of fictional and autobiographical accounts; see, e.g. Beverly Farmer’s (1995) memoir, The House in the Light. 7. This objective is drilled into children from a young age. For an art exhibit in which students of the English Association’s language classes were asked to illustrate their sense of identity, a student named Elena, age twelve, composed the following caption to her drawing of overlapping Irish and Greek flags: “I’m pleased to know that when I grow up I’ll be able to attend university in either Ireland or Greece. There will be a great choice for my future education.” 8. In an other example of the robot metaphor, Shirley Valentine, that familiar figure of British popular culture who epitomizes the subversive potential of a Greek holiday, refers to herself as “strutting around like R2 bleeding D2” in her daily round of household chores in London (cited in Placas 2001, 8). 9. At the same time, some forty-five thousand Greek immigrants in the United States returned to join the Greek army and fight in the Balkan Wars (Moskos 1989, cited in Jusdanis 2001, 170), an indication that dense social networks and return flows do not characterize only today’s transnational migrants. 10. A recent study found that a quarter of all people randomly surveyed on Rhodes owned a second house (Dhimos Rodhion 2002.) Given that many non-native-born inhabitants were included in this survey, the proportion of native Rhodians who own a second house is probably higher still. 11. These opposed images of country and city are much in evidence in Eugenia Fakinou’s 1991 novel, Astradeni, which tells the story of...


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