restricted access 21 Saint Vladimir Bay
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224 Saint Vladimir Bay The Saint Olga River. Spending the Night by Chinese Fanzas. The Vladimirovka River. The Bay’s Geology. Chinese Fisheries. An Octopus. The Khuluay River. While I had been on the Arzamasovka River, our long-awaited supplies arrived by ship from Vladivostok. The timing was perfect. We had explored the environs of Saint Olga Bay and were ready to move on. We spentJuly24thand25thpreparing,afterwhichtimethehorseswerewell rested and fully recovered. Our clothing and the horses’ gear were all repaired and ready, and our food supplies had been replenished. Our plan was as follows: G. I. Granatman was instructed to go up into the mountains between the Arzamasovka River and the Sibegou River (a tributary of the Tadusha River), and A. I. Merzlyakov was to go around the Arzamasovka from the other direction. We would meet both of them in the upper reaches of the Tadusha, as the remaining men and I would start by following the coast to Saint Vladimir Bay. My colleagues started off the morning of July 26th, and the rest of us left on the afternoon of the 28th. The day was nice and warm, and the sky was crowded with giant cumulus clouds. The sun’s rays broke through them, sending bands of lightthroughtheair,whichreflectedoffpuddles,playedacrosstherocks and alder leaves, and lit first one mountain slope, then another. I could hear thunder in the distance. 21 Saint Vladimir Bay 225 The bays of Saint Olga and Saint Vladimir are close to one another; separated only by some 50 kilometers. There is a small mountain ridge between them with an average elevation of 250 meters, with the highest point at 450 meters. This ridge serves as the divide between the Saint Olga River (13 kilometers long) and the Vladimirovka River (9 kilometerslong ),whichflowsintoSaintVladimirBay.Bothriversflowthrough wide valleys parallel to the coast, which are divided from the sea by a low ridge that starts at Shkot Cape (in Saint Olga Bay), runs to Vatovsky Cape (in Saint Vladimir Bay), and then continues on further to the north. The Saint Olga River is made up of two rivers of similar size with a multitude of small tributaries, which is why the valley looks like a broad, eroded depression. In the past, the residents of Saint Olga Post and Saint VladimircommunicatedviaatrailcutbyChinesehunters.Thischanged when the naval cruiser Izumrud [“emerald”] crashed in Saint Vladimir Bay in 1905, during the Russo-Japanese War.1 In order to transport salvaged materials from the ship to Saint Olga Post, a proper road was constructed . Since then, communications between the two bays have been much improved. The storm passed us by, and the sky cleared in the afternoon. The sunshonesobrightlythatitseemedlikeeverythingonearthhaditsown light and heat source. The day was hot and humid. Twilightdescendeduponusbeforewereachedthepass.Thedayhad just ended—there was a dark blue fog off to the east, in the direction of the coast, and night loomed behind it. Vivid flashes of lightning lit the sky and the cumulus clouds that huddled on the horizon. There was a mountainstreamroaringnearby,andthegrassescrackledwiththeincessant racket of grasshoppers. 1. The Izumrud was one of only a few Russian ships to escape the Battle of Tsushima Strait (May 14th–15th, 1905), in which nearly the entire Russian Navy was destroyed by the Japanese, effectively deciding the outcome of the Russo-Japanese War. Fearing that the port city of Vladivostok was under blockade by enemy ships after the battle, the captain of the Izumrud instead sought safe haven in Saint Vladimir Bay, where haste and poor visibility led to the ship becoming stranded on the rocks on May 18th, 1905 (Alliluyev and Bogdanov 2004). See plate 21 for the wreck of the Izumrud. 226 The 1906 Expedition I was about to give the signal to stop when one of the soldiers spied a fire. Indeed, there was a small fire burning by the edge of the forest, about 300 meters off the road. We walked toward it and came upon a Chinese fanza. The dogs there alerted the owners of our approach with their barking. Two Chinese men came out to meet us, and I could see fear, humility, flattery, and hospitality in their smiles and bows. They invited me to sleep in their fanza, but the night was so pleasant that I declined their invitation in favor of the campfire, where I happily settled in next to the Cossacks. The first night at camp is usually especially lively after a long break. Everyone is full of strength and energy, everyone is content, and everyone feels like a...


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Subject Headings

  • Ussuri River Valley (Russia and China) -- Description and travel.
  • Natural history -- Ussuri River Valley (Russia and China).
  • Dersu Uzala.
  • Arsenʹev, V. K. (Vladimir Klavdievich), 1872-1930 -- Travel -- Ussuri River Valley (Russia and China).
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