Those Days in Muramatsu: One Woman's Memoir of Occupied Japan

Chapter 21: Souvenir Shops

CHAPTER 21 SOUVENIR SOUVENIR SHOPS SHOPS They were indeed the men of the renowned Regiment. The soldiers as a whole behaved themselves admirably. People of the town began to like them more and more as they came to know them better. In the beginning they were frightened, not knowing what kind of people Americans were. By and by, however, they came to find out that the American soldiers were very nice people—cheerful, friendly, magnanimous, and kind to small children. They were childlike themselves. They ate and whistled in the street—especially at pretty girls—and loved to sit on railings. I often saw them sitting on the railings of the bridge in front of the station or on the wicket at the entrance to the platform while waiting for the train. They looked like birds perched on a boar. Such kinds of behavior were considered ill-mannered among Japanese, but with those carefree soldiers, it looked very natural. What struck the Japanese as a characteristic of Americans was that all of them without exception carried a picture of his wife or sweetheart. After a few minutes of acquaintance they would take out their pictures and cherishingly showed them around. In the train, at a souvenir shop, or in a private home, Japanese people were shown pictures of many American women. “They must be longing for home very badly,” townspeople said remembering our unrepatriated soldiers abroad. On the other hand, Americans were surprised to find no trace of resentment or malice on the part of the natives. “We were prepared to meet some violence or at least resistance and we were quite surprised because Japanese people are so peaceful and hospitable to us,” one of them remarked. The Japanese are a peace-loving people, but their attachment to the Emperor was so strong that they did anything they were ordered to do in his name. They fought desperately because they were told that it was for his sake; they threw away their arms when the Emperor told them to do so. They had not felt particular enmity against Americans; it was through elaborate propaganda that they came to hate America. The Japanese are an emotional people. They do not do much reasoning. Everything for the Emperor! This attitude is seen in a smaller scale in their daily life. They pay particular attention to their own family or personal friends and give less consideration to strangers. When getting on a train they would push others away and occupy seats for their companions. They don’t care if a woman with heavy baggage is standing in front of them. Indeed, loyalty and filial piety have been our two outstanding virtues. Just as our language is written lengthways, so did we pay attention only to the vertical order of society without looking sideways at our fellow human beings. As it was with a sense of relief that we were shaken out of our long nightmarish dream, it was not surprising that people generally showed no enmity or resentment against the Americans when they knew that they did no harm to innocent people. At the same time, they realized that it was the best opportunity for them to make money. Souvenir shops appeared like bamboo shoots after a rain. A widow I knew kept a small fancy goods store and was very pessimistic when the coming of the troops was announced. She thought of retiring in their native village. However, when I 100 dropped in to see her after a month or so, she told me excitedly about the money she made during one month. A part of the shopping district of Muramatsu as it used to be. A “Souvenir Shop” sign was pasted on the window pane and such commodities as fans, silk handkerchiefs, and whatnot were displayed in the front row. Two or three bright colored kimonos also were hanging on the wall. “I have sold my wedding kimono,” she said, “but I was told that I sold it at a loss. I sold it at only 300 yen, very cheap for a kimono like that.” “These kimonos are on commission sale,” she said as she pointed to the hanging kimonos. “Evacuees from cities are selling their kimono to buy food.” One of the repercussions of the coming of the troops showed itself in rising prices. Five hundred yen for a second-hand kimono! We marvelled. But it was only...