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Surabaya, 1945-2010

Neighbourhood, State and Economy in Indonesia's City of Struggle

Robbie Peters

Publication Year: 2013

Surabaya, 1945-2010 presents the recent history of one of Indonesia's great port cities as viewed from a crowded low-income neighbourhood (kampung) called Dinoyo. By following the lives of Dinoyo residents over three generations, it provides a new perspective on landmark moments in the country's modern history, including the war for independence, the destruction of the Communist Party, anti-crime campaigns, neighbourhood improvement projects, the fall of the New Order and the rise of democracy, as well as more recent government campaigns to fight terrorism and promote urban renewal. During several long periods of residence in the kampung, Robbie Peters gathered richly detailed information about the responses of its residents to the tumultuous process of political reform and economic growth. He shows how their informal economy adapted to the forces of urban change, and how their neighbourhood-based social institutions promoted a 'participative' citizenship that resisted state attempts to shape a more exclusive citizenship that restricted the rights of newcomers to the city. Residents of urban neighbourhoods such as Kampung Dinoyo make up a substantial proportion of Indonesia's urban population and their kampungs a significant proportion of urban land, yet they rarely appear in historical accounts of the Indonesian city. Peters' account of urban life as experienced by one group of kampung residents is a unique contribution to the literature on one of Asia's largest and most complex countries.

Published by: NUS Press Pte Ltd

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Title Page, Copyright

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pp. 1-6

FM Section I-NPU+NIAS iFM Section I-NPU+NIAS i 1/23/13 10:46:04 AM1/23/13 10:46:04 AMSince 1979 the Southeast Asia Publications Series (SEAPS) has brought some of the best of Australian scholarship on Southeast Asia to an international readership. It seeks to publish leading-edge research by both young and established scholars on the countries and peoples of Southeast Asia across all disciplines of the ...


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pp. vii-8

List of Tables

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pp. ix-10

List of Figures

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pp. xi-xii

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pp. xiii-xiv

The field research for this book was approved by the Indonesian Institute of Sciences and sponsored through Airlangga University with the help of Professor Soetandyo Wignosubroto. Without Professor Soetandyo’s support my research in Surabaya could not have begun. Th e same can be said for my friend Dr Bambang...

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pp. xv-xvii

For the 12 months of 1998, I lived and carried out anthropological fi eldwork in the poor neighbourhood (kampung) of Dinoyo in Indo-nesia?s second city of Surabaya, East Java. During that momentous year, the Indonesian economy collapsed, half the urban population presidency after 32 years in power. Th e promise of a democratic Indo-...

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Chapter 1: Introduction: City and Country

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pp. 1-17

Outside the Surabaya zoo, a few kilometres south of the central business district, stands a statue of the city?s coat of arms, a shark and crocodile locked in battle. Symbolising bravery against danger, the statue addresses everyone coming from the south on entry to the city?s main thoroughfare, Darmo Boulevard.1 Behind the street-front ...

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Chapter 2: Dinoyo

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pp. 18-37

Two pieces of happenstance led me to Dinoyo. Th e fi rst was the good fortune of a 12-month research visa that took me to Surabaya in January 1998, the year of Indonesia?s momentous economic and political crisis. Th e second occurred some weeks later as I sat in dency permit for the city. Here, I met a man whose wife knew of a ...

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Chapter 3: The Purge

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pp. 38-71

Th e bridge from Dinoyo to Ngagel Industrial Estate was a place where kampung residents fi lled their lungs with air, freed their thoughts, strode out and cooled their skin in the breeze that swept across the river. In the closing weeks of 1965, this mood of openness would suddenly change: the air here would thicken with tension as corpses ...

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Chapter 4: Improvements

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pp. 72-96

From Indonesia?s gaining of independence in 1950 to the extirpation of the PKI in 1966, Surabaya?s population almost tripled from an ever, the clearance of squatter settlements and crackdown on iti-nerants reduced the population by an estimated 500,000, the fi rst population decline since the exodus to the hinterland during the ...

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Chapter 5: Factory to Mall

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pp. 97-116

In the early 1970s the factories of Ngagel Industrial Estate lined the opposite side of the river from Dinoyo. Th ey included the British American Tobacco (BAT) factory, the Unilever toiletries factory, the Bintang Brewery, the Philips-Ralin light globe factory, the Barata machinery factory, the Karet Ngagel rubber factory, the ACCU car ...

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Chapter 6: Crisis

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pp. 117-139

Just before I arrived in Surabaya in the fi nal week of January 1998, Th e rupiah?s downward spiral had begun six months earlier, marking the start of an economic crisis that would be more severe than in other Asian countries (Evans, 1998: 6; Johnson, 1998: 15). My fi rst awareness of the crisis came a few days later, when I was visiting an ...

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Chapter 7: Ninja

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pp. 140-155

One night in October 1998, the guard post in Alley Nine was noisy contribute eight hours? guard duty by manning the post as part of a 24-hour rotating guard watch put in place for the week. Th ose men who were not on duty stayed awake of their own accord, congrega-ting and on alert around their alleyways. As the men sat and talked, ...

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Chapter 8: The Alley and the Street

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pp. 156-176

Th e ninja hysteria threw suspicion upon the newcomer. Newcomers were inherent to Surabaya, epitomised by the founding fathers of kampungs who came and settled the city (Chapter 2). Th eir graves remain the centrepiece of kampung graveyards, representing the fi nal stage in a young Javanese man?s rite of passage, from wandering in ...

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Chapter 9: Urban Renewal

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pp. 177-202

...?Th e pattern of destroying and building anew as occurred at the By 2003, Jl. Dinoyo had lost most of the street vendors, scrap pickers nomic crisis of 1997?98. Th e entry to Alley Nine was no longer cluttered with awaiting becaks, and only one small co? ee stall was left standing at the busy intersection where the BAT Bridge joined ...

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Chapter 10: Conclusion: Death and Life

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pp. 203-218

...?In the capitals people print maps with red dotted lines or dif-ferent colours to show the di? erent areas, as though this will keep great spectacle. Th ey would rush out of the kampung, crowd the riverbank, climb trees for a better vantage point and yell updates on the corpse?s position to friends below. Th is sort of collective viewing ...


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pp. 219-222


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pp. 223-239

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About the Author

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pp. 240-258

When Robbie Peters fi rst visited Surabaya, in early 1997, this once prominent city of the Dutch colonial empire and birthplace of the Indonesian revolution was well o? the beaten path of anthropological work on Java. He returned in January 1998 and lived for a year in a lower-income neighbourhood of the inner city, gathering the ethno-...


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pp. 241-254

E-ISBN-13: 9789971697945
Print-ISBN-13: 9789971696443

Page Count: 272
Illustrations: 2 tables, 30 images
Publication Year: 2013

Edition: New