Index
241 Index advertisements, 60, 71, 73, 85n27 advertising, 5, 9, 72, 85n18 Aestheticism: and consumerism , 55, 59; and dress, 49–51, 56–7, 62; and Frances Leyland, 64–65; and James McNeill Whistler, 60–64; and Orientalism, 45, 48, 60 anxiety, and ambiguity, 27, 55, 127, 128, 204–5 architecture: and Eileen Gray, 20, 28–29, 34–37, 38n1, 39n4, 42n45, 42n49, 44n74 (see also E.1027); and fashion, 19, 22, 25; and Le Corbusier, 23–24, 32, 44n77 Barthes, Roland, 10, 182, 190, 200n14, 201n33 Baudelaire, Charles, 3, 60, 63, 69n30, 104–5, 126 beauty: and AfricanAmerican women, 181, 189–90, 192–93, 195, 198n6, 201n32; and fashion, 50–51, 69, 92, 120; and Jewish women, 213–14; Phryné, 132, 137; representations of, 50, 55–56, 90; seductive power of, 90–91, 99; and shame, 97–98 Beauty inWoman (Walker), 90–94, 96, 100n9 Beauty Myth: How Images of Beauty Are Used Against Women, The (Wolf ), 225 Benjamin,Walter, 3, 194 bodies, 3–4, 22, 25, 170, 173, 176, 233 body, the, 51, 66, 153, 162–63, 204, 211, 220 Breward, Christopher, 5, 45, 72, 83, 123n50 caricature, 106, 118, 124, 130, 137, 141, 180 Chanel, Coco, 71, 77, 207–8, 222 class: and Aesthetic dress, 46, 48, 56–57, 66; as bridged by fashion, 203, 206, 211, 222–23; and ethnicity, 207–8, 211–13, 216; fashion as signifier of, 105–7, 115, 117, 119, 124, 187; and female masculinity , 19, 23, 26–28, 35; and gender, 207–8; and modernity, 105, 141; and morality, 119, 124, 186; and nursing, 151, 154–55, 157, 173, 175–76; and nursing uniforms, 152, 170–71; and the secondhand clothing trade, 71–72, 75, 83–84; white middle- and upper-, 19, 23, 186, 190, 191, 194 colonialism, 47 consumer culture: and Aestheticism, 51, 56, 59–60; and modernity, 1, 10; and whiteness, 190, 201n34, 213 consumerism, 49, 55, 208, 222 consumers: and secondhand trade, 72, 75, 82–83; women as, 6, 12, 49–50, 67n7, 207, 216 consumption: of Aesthetic art, 49–50, 59; of fashion, 187, 191–92, 196; as gendered , 5, 50, 206, 211; and modernity, 1–3, 5; and secondhand clothing trade, 71, 80, 82–83; women and, 12, 46 cotton, in nursing uniforms, 159–62, 170–71, 174 Crisis, 180–81, 187, 199n6 “Criteria of Negro Art” (Du Bois), 180, 190–95 cultural pluralism, 203, 210, 217, 224, 226 democracy, 3, 84, 182 democratization, 10, 72, 83, 235 Du Bois,W.E.B.:“Criteria of Negro Art,” 180, 190–95 E.1027: design elements of, 28–30, 33–35; history of, 20–21; story of, 37–38; and TheWell of Loneliness , 22, 31 embodiment, 13, 23, 225 ethnicity, 207–8, 212–13, 217, 226, 237 everyday life: and female modernity, 2, 6–8, 13; women’s mastery of, 92, 100n11 fabric: exotic, 47, 53, 59–60; and nursing uniforms, 170–71, 174; race as a, 203–4, 206, 216, 226 242 Index fantasy: and fashion, 184, 187–88, 193, 196–98, 234, 237; and modern architecture, 23, 32; and Orientalism, 47–48; and representations of race, 184, 187–88, 193, 197–98, 234, 237 fashion plates, 48, 92–93, 121n25, 126, 139 female masculinity: fashions in, 19–20, 22–23, 25–26; and sexuality, 27–28, 31 femininity: within Aestheticism, 49–50, 56; constructions of, 126, 225; cultures of, 7, 9–10; and ethnic identity, 211, 213, 215–16; fashion and, 5–6, 8–9, 105; and female agency, 89, 92, 95, 98; and lesbian masculinity, 22, 26–28; and “masculine ” fashion, 109, 111, 207; and modernity, 1–2, 105, 107–8, 120; and racial identity, 188–190, 192–93; representations of ideal, 152, 164, 169, 237 feminism, 169 feminists, 162, 232 feminist theory, 6, 184, 200n19 gaze: the female, 48, 99, 103, 114–16, 119, 140, 168; the male, 25, 103, 114; sexualized, 97, 101n30 Gilman, Charlotte Perkins, 206–7, 214, 221 Gray, Eileen: E.1027, 20–22, 39n4, 44n74; and fashion, 25–26, 28; and Le Corbusier , 20, 37, 39n4; sexuality, 20, 37, 39n8; and visibility, 21–22, 29–33, 35–37; writings of, 33–34 Guys, Constantin, 104, 136, 145n50 Hall, Radclyffe: and fashion, 26, 28; female masculinity , 26, 28; obscenity trials, 36, 38; TheWell of Loneliness, 21–22 Harlem Renaissance, 180–1, 187, 190, 195, 198 Haweis, Eliza, 92 heterosexuality: and the coquette, 89, 96, 98; and female consumerism, 95–97, 102, 228n27; non-, 20, 22, 28, 31, 37, 39 homosexuality, 21...
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