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11. La Belle Équitation
- University of South Carolina Press
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11 Oo La Belle Équitation In the spring of 1926 Belle went to France, where she plunged into a whirl of social engagements. She sighed with pleasure at the beauty of Paris, the Paris immortalized by Hemingway and Fitzgerald, where the wide avenue of the Champs-Élysées bloomed with chestnut blossoms and brilliant flowers instead of the tourist kiosks of today. It was not in Belle, however, to join the “lost generation .” Too many things were happening in the world, and she wanted to be a part of them. Edith Wilson returned to Europe that summer, and Belle eagerly sent her advance copies of all the latest theatrical and musical events. She welcomed Mrs. Wilson and her brother, Wilmer Bolling, and their small party headed once more to the haunted castle in Scotland for the hunting excursion. Leaving Scotland, they drove to Eastern Europe, destined for Prague, Czechoslovakia , where they were to be the guests of President Jan Masaryk. Then it was on to Geneva once again for a session at the League of Nations. Mrs. Wilson left for the United States, and Belle journeyed to Pau. Belle was restless. The world was changing so quickly! Marvelous electronic and aeronautic advances were being made. There had already been radiotelephone communication between New York and London, and the first airmail service had been established between New York and Boston. The months flowed into 1927, and Belle was in France when Charles Lindbergh flew his Spirit of St. Louis solo from New York to Paris. It was an exciting time, and Americans basked in the reflected glory of “Lucky Lindy,” who was the toast of Paris. Babe Ruth set a new home-run record, and the amazing Holland Tunnel opened connecting New York and New Jersey. Belle wanted new challenges to add to her own accomplishments. Baroness of Hobcaw 52 While hunting at Pau, Belle met Paul Larregain, a brilliant rider and teacher. Larregain was highly respected as a horseman, breeder, and trainer and was among those who organized and established the standards for international equestrian competition. Belle was a frequent visitor at Larregain’s stables. Sir Alfred Munnings, one of the great equestrian artists of the world and president of the British Royal Academy from 1944 to 1949, wrote of Larregain : A fine horseman and an expert in what is known as Haute École, was a man called Larrigain [sic]. He had been an instructor at Samur [the French National Riding Academy]. His stables and enormous riding school—a converted aeroplane hangar—stood in the valley near the Garbe river. Here I used to watch French attendants with their short-handled whips, lashes many yards long, standing at attention whilst two horses, being schooled for international high jumping came on to the wide, sanded floor. These horses were without saddle or bridle. Perfectly free, wearing thick cotton bandages and knee-caps to prevent damage from the iron jumping-bars, they would, at the movement of a long lash, turn at the far end. Then, one following the other at a canter, measuring their stride, they jumped over the unbendable iron bars, more often than not without a fault. Continuing their beautiful free action around the big arena, on the far side they met with and jumped a similar obstacle. These bars would then be raised an inch—two inches—three—until the jump was somewhere near seven feet. The horses, knowing such bars did not easily give, seldom hit them. It was a thrilling sight for one trying to understand the miraculous live mechanism of the horse.1 Larregain had watched Belle ride among the foxhunting set at Pau. “La Belle,” as he saw her, was fearless in headlong pursuit of the fox, firm in the saddle, her long legs guiding her mount. She did not shy from the most dangerous course, taking each jump with exhilarating, almost intoxicating joy. Strong and powerful, the Junoesque American was in total control of her mount and, more importantly, of herself. What elegance and style! Belle looked magni ficent in riding kit, the high polished boots, hand-sewn and fitted by Maxwell of London, her hunt jackets perfectly tailored. Her imported English saddle was purchased at M. J. Monheimer in New York. In top hat, she appeared even taller and leaner, an elegant silhouette. “Belle should always be seen on horseback,” gushed a friend. “She looks so magnificent!” “That would be a bit awkward,” Belle observed. [54.160.243.44] Project...