Index
245 index Absinthe, 31–33, 36 Absinthe, Sip of Seduction (Wittels and Hermesch), 31 Acadians, 64, 100, 102–3, 148, 165. See also Cajun foodways Acadia Parish, 173 Acme Oyster House, 62 Acton, Eliza, 183 Adler’s, 87, 202 Africa. See African foodways; West Africa African American foodways, 12, 21; adaptability of, 16; gumbo, 107–8, 109; in Picayune’s Creole Cook Book, 19, 82, 87; similar to white foodways in New Orleans, 18, 82 African Americans, 5; cooks and chefs, 6, 18, 81, 82, 90, 105, 186; fishermen, 57; food vendors, 9, 20, 57, 134–35, 171–72, 197; restaurateurs, xii, 18, 21, 22 African American women: coffee stalls of, 197; cookbook authors, 22, 82, 92, 106, 114; cooks and chefs, 82, 186; restaurateurs, 21, 22; street vendors, 20, 134–35, 171–72, 185, 190 African foodways, in New Orleans, x, 4–5, 8, 19, 57, 133–34, 136–37, 142 Africans in Colonial Louisiana (Hall), 100 Agriculture, U.S. Department of (USDA), 147–48, 150, 177 Alciatore, Antoine, 14–15, 33, 108, 145 Alciatore, Jules, 62–63, 202 Alciatore, Roy, 63 Alcohol, xii, 5, 7, 20, 28–37, 178–79 Algiers (section of New Orleans), 166 Almonds, 127 Alsace-Lorraine, 133, 138 Alsatians, 4, 8–9, 59 Amaretto, 179–80 Ambrosia, 186 American Cookery (Simmons), 88 American Cooking: Creole and Acadian (Feibleman), 81, 99, 132, 174, 196 American Revolution, 39 Anchovies, 54, 57 Anderson, Brett, 73, 114, 116, 161 Andouille, 101, 103 Angelo Gendusa Bakery, 43 Angostura bitters, 30, 33–34, 36–37 Anise-flavored liqueurs, 28, 31–33, 36 Antoine’s, xii, 14–15, 17, 21, 122; café brûlot, 202; desserts, 188; gumbo, 108; Oysters Rockefeller , 33, 62–63, 67; pommes de terre soufflées, 145; pompano en papillotte, 119; shrimp remoulade, 59; turtle soup, 92 Antoine’s Restaurant since 1840 Cookbook (Guste), 59, 63, 202 Appadurai, Arjun, 83 Arabi, xi Arceneaux, Pamela, 122 Aristotle, 64 “Ark of Taste” (Slow Food), 176 Armstrong, Beatrice“Mama Lucy,” 128 Armstrong, Louis, 128 Armstrong, Lucille, 128 Entries in boldface refer to recipes. index 246 Arnaud,“Count.” See Cazenave,“Count” Léon Bertrand Arnaud Arnaud’s, 17, 22, 58, 63, 116, 119 Arnaud’s Creole Cookbook, 58 Arthur, Ella Bentley, 59 Arthur, Stanley Clisby, 29, 34 Artichokes, 143–44 Art of Creole Cookery (Kaufman and Cooper), 84, 171 Asbury, Herbert, 108 Atkins diet, 176 Audubon, John James, 14 Avery Island, 103 Aveta, Jean Louis, 168 Awakening (Chopin), 168 Aztecs, 155 Babas, 185 Bacco, 163 Bachelor in New Orleans (Kinney), 35 Bailey, Lee, 153, 163 Baked Alaska, 188 Bakeries, 38–40, 43–46, 47 Bakers, 4, 38, 40, 46, 47, 53 Bakers and Confectioners, Union of Journeymen , 46 Bakers’Association, New Orleans Master, 46 Bakers Benevolent Society, New Orleans, 40 “Bakers Union, Boss,” 46 Baltimore, 93, 94 Bananas, 50, 148, 187, 188 Bananas Foster, 187–88 B&G Foods, 138 Baquet, Wayne, 129 Barbe’s Dairy, 169 Barken, Peter H., 168 Barnes, Lee, 180, 191 Bars, 14, 15, 17, 20, 33; free lunches in, 50; and Sazeracs, 29–30, 31–32, 34; women in, 35. See also specific bars Basque immigrants, 59 Bay leaves, 5, 7 Bayou St. John, 68 Beans, 4, 7, 10, 129–31, 137, 144. See also Red beans and rice Beard, James, 82 Bear fat, 113 Béarnaise sauce, 7, 145 Becker, Ethan, 151 Becnel, Benny, 157, 160, 161 Becnel, Johnny, Sr., 154, 157, 160 Bedwell, Randall, 79 Beer, 20 Bégué, (Mme.) Elizabeth Kettenring Dutrey, 15, 56–57, 59, 69, 112, 113 Bell peppers, 5, 7, 146 Bennachin, 146 Beoku-Betts, Josephine A., 82–83 Bero, Victor, 57 Besh, John, 23 Bienvenu, Marcelle, 24, 84, 89, 116, 154, 174, 201 Bienville, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne, sieur de, 63, 91, 99, 141–42 Big Fisherman, 124 Biloxi, Miss., 64 Bitoun, Maurice, 122 Bitters, 28–29, 30, 31, 32, 33–34, 36–37 Bittersweet Plantation Dairy, 165, 177, 178 Blake, Christopher, 85, 202 Blangé, Paul, 187 Blue Runner Creole Cream Style Red Beans, 138 Bologna, Antonio, 160 Bonne femme (style of cooking), 16 Bookbinder’s Snapper Soup, 93 Bordelaise sauce, 7 Borden’s dairy, 172, 178 Boré, Etienne de, 184 Bouillabaisse, 99, 159 Bouilli, 19, 74–76 Bouillon, 87 Bourbon, 28 Bourdieu, Pierre, 191 Bourg, Gene, 24, 81, 153–54 Bradshaw, Jim, 103 Brains, 56 Brandy, 29, 30, 33, 34 Brantley, Steve, 125 Brasseaux, Carl, 103 Bread, 9, 38–41, 43, 44–45, 182–83, 191. See also French bread, New Orleans–style [3.149.252.37] Project MUSE (2024...
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