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85 Edward Tick I travel through the Mekong Delta, viewing the results of doi moi, which means renovation. Viet Nam’s liberalizing policy was adopted in 1986 to free their hungry land from the depression of economy and spirit resulting from war and Communism. Since land ownership was returned to them, farmers have increased productivity from starvation levels to not only feed their people but to make their country, along with Thailand and the United States, one of the world’s foremost rice exporters. Yet they retain traditions and interdependency far older than modern political theories. Each family owns its own land, yet every farmer works every paddy in the village. Farming Tending my paddy my neighbor’s bending back aches as much as mine R My veteran travelers and I sputter in a small, peeling wooden passenger boat through a green world, floating among the lush islands that freckle the Mekong River. We visit with Vietnamese veterans and their families from every faction of the old Southern and Northern armies. Long-haired Warrior Mrs. Tien is a Viet Cong veteran, a “long-haired warrior” as the women fighters were called. She enlisted in the VC at ten years old after her school was bombed and destroyed by our American forces. Amidst dead children I follow my teacher into battle Serving as a courier, she met her future husband, who became a VC unit commander, while fighting the war. Unlike American GIs, the Vietnamese troops were in the war until it was over or they were wounded or killed.Their company commander married them in a simple jungle ceremony. 86 The Golden Tortoise I speak my vows to my man and country— honeymoon ambush The couple began their family during the war.While fighting and struggling, they had three children. Nursing babies— fighting invaders— war inside and out Mr. Tien was severely wounded twice. With a joyous laugh he lifts his shirt to show us his scars. This entire family survived and began a farm on this Delta island where they still live with their families. Dragon eyes, mangos, eels, snails, turtles, grandchildren— tides in, out, in Now they welcome us, offering tea, pineapples and red spiked chum chums. They joke and smile with my group of American veteran visitors. They are especially anxious to hear our vets’ stories and offer us their hospitality. Last time you must leave. But tonight please dream on my pillow. R When he first returned in 1985 to this country he had fought, marine veteran W.D. Ehrhart wondered whether he was one of the boogey-men parents use here in stories to scare their children. He asked: “When they tell stories to their children/ of the evil/ that awaits misbehavior/ is it me they conjure?” We all fear this is so. The morning after hearing of Mrs. Tien’s wartime losses, with funds we have raised for its building, we dedicate a kindergarten that will serve two dozen children in one of the poorest Mekong Delta communes. ...

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