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79 1858 F rancis, with Lucy by his side, was about to realize his fondest dream of crossing the ocean with his love, “Holding each others hands, looking at the stars and to the heavens, talking of elevated and mighty themes . . . mingling our souls together in the rapture of holy and consecrated love.”1 The dream ended abruptly with the first sharp roll of the ship. All in their party became violently ill that first day out except the new Mrs. Pickens. Invigorated by the air and enjoying the attention of the officers and other passengers, Lucy promenaded with friends and especially with Mrs. Gwin, wife of the senator from California, who was embarking on the “grand tour” of Europe with her daughter .2 Seated at the captain’s table, the Honorable Minister to Russia and his lady were introduced to passengers whom Lucy found most interesting.3 After seven days at sea they reached Liverpool, England. CHAPTER TEN 1858 “talking of elevated and mighty themes . . .” Francis W. Pickens 80 talking of elevated and mighty themes . . . Rooms were engaged for them at the Queen’s Hotel. Lucy was pleased with the private parlor and rooms but thought the food inferior and was happy to leave the morning of 9 June for London. She had much to write about in her letters home, letters that show Lucy to be acutely observant of her surroundings. Extracts from these letters were printed in the Memphis, Tennessee, Eagle and Enquirer newspaper in 1858. Lucy wrote— I must confess myself a little disappointed in the appearance of ‘Old England’ although it is beautiful. It has very much the appearance of Pennsylvania and the New England States with its patches of green, its running water and grazing cattle. But there is one thing lovely beyond description, I mean the daisies and butter-cups that sprinkle the earth as a shower of silver and gold; the brilliant hues of the red poppy, growing wild as it does among the rye, oats, etc., gives a picturesque effect, especially when relieved now and then by bunches of gay dandallions [sic]. I saw also the famous hawthorn hedges, those hedges which, in novels, the handsome young man in hunting costume always springs over, followed by his dog, and through which villains creep to hear important conversations; they are very pretty, but I much more admire the Cherokee [Rose], and more especially the wild peach hedge seen in my own dear South. I was glad enough to see the smoke of London, for the car was uncomfortable and I was greatly fatigued. Gen. Campbell, the Consul,4 met us at the depot and told Col. P. that he had taken rooms for him at Fenton’s Hotel, St. James Street, so to Fenton’s we came, and it certainly is the gloomiest place in the world. My parlor, in which we dine, is large, solemn and musty, bedroom small and five flights up. We ordered dinner at 6 and after dinner drove to St. James’ and then to Hyde Park. I was disappointed in Hyde Park. It is certainly vast and extensive, like a young country in the heart of London, and is doubtless the greatest blessing the lower classes [3.139.82.23] Project MUSE (2024-04-26 17:50 GMT) 81 1858 of London have, but the grounds are not, to my taste, handsomely laid off, nor are there many trees. St. James’ Park has more, and on the whole, I like that better. Hyde Park was filled with the splendid equipages of the nobility, and the more modest vehicles of the commonality , to say nothing of the hundreds on foot who crowded every path. The nobility I think, do not go out in very much finer style than ourselves, only a greater display of servants. The carriages are open (like those in New York) summer, and the coachman and footman in livery. The handsomest livery I saw was black hat with gold band, green coat with gold lace and buttons, crimson plush knee-breeches, and white silk stockings . Unhappy with their accommodations, Francis set out early the next morning, 10 June, to secure more agreeable rooms at the Morley Hotel on Trafalgar Square. Lucy, pleased with the new parlor and bedroom elegantly furnished in rosewood and damask with pier glass mirrors, noted the marvelous view of the fountains in the square. She identified a statue as that of Sir Robert Peel. She could not help but see the...

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