Eating Asian America
A Food Studies Reader
Publication Year: 2013
Published by: NYU Press
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Title Page, Copyright
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List of Figures and Maps
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T_he familiar food-related adage cautions, âToo many cooks spoil the broth,â which may be true, but not for this book. A great number of âcooksâ have had their hands in the completion of this collection. First and foremost, we thank the seventeen contributors for their enthusiasm, diligence, creativity, erudi-We thank Eric Zinner, editor in chief of New York University Press, who ...
An Alimentary Introduction
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Understanding and apprehending Asian American food experiences begin and end with the body. T_he category Asian American is a historical U.S. fed-eral census designation that rests in part on the long history of what might be described as the Foucauldian control and discipline1 around the movement of Asian bodies to America, in part on their toil in various agricultural f_ields and ...
PART I: LABORS OF TASTE
1. Cambodian Donut Shops and the Negotiation of Identity in Los Angeles
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When the communist Khmer Rouge regime came to power in Cambodia in 1nine.oldstyleseven.oldstylefive.oldstyle, Ted Ngoy, a major in the Cambodian army working at the Cambodian embassy in Bangkok, f_led with his wife and three children âaboard one of the f_irst refugee airplanes to leave Asia for the [United States] West Coast.â1 âA l l the way over we just talked about having enough pigs and chickens to take to ...
2. Tasting America: The Politics and Pleasures of School Lunch in Hawai‘i
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...[Food is] a marvelously plastic kind of collective representation.uni00A0.uni00A0.uni00A0. In its varied guises, contexts, and functions, [food] can signal rank and rivalry, solidarity and Arjun Appadurai, âGastro-Politics in Hindu South Asia,â 1nine.oldstyleeight.oldstyle1February 200nine.oldstyle, Kabuki Restaurant and Delicatessen, Waimalu Shopping Center, Aiea, Hawaiâi, 11:00 a.m. I am here with Wanda Adams, former food editor for ...
3. A Life Cooking for Others: The Work and Migration Experiences of a Chinese Restaurant Worker in New York City, 1920–1946
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...[Chop suey]one.fitted is no longer merely a casual commodity. It has become a staple. It is vigorously vieing [sic] with sandwiches and salad as the noontime nour-ishment of the young women typists and telephonists of John, Dey and Fulton Streets. It rivals cof_fee-and-two-kinds-of-cake as the recess repast of the sales forces of West T_hirty-fourth Street department stores. At the lunch hour there is ...
4. Learning from Los Kogi Angeles: A Taco Truck and Its City
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Local Los Angeles lore credits Raul Martinez with creating the f_irst loncheraâalso known as a taco truckâwhen he converted an ice-cream van and began selling tacos in front of an east LA bar.1 Martinezâs innovation proved so lucra-tive he eventually parlayed his mobile money into a popular brick-and-mortar chain named King Taco. T_he company still operates taco trucks on the streets ...
5. The Significance of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine in Postcolonial Hawai‘i
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At f_irst glance, Hawaiâi regional cuisine (HRC), like other American regional cuisines, seems nothing less than a paean to the stateâs diverse ethnic commu-nities and foods and to the islandsâ natural bounty, air, land, and sea.1 Given the history of the Hawaiian Islands as, f_irst, an independent kingdom (1seven.oldstylenine.oldstylefive.oldstyleâ1eight.oldstylenine.oldstyle3) and then a U.S. colony (1eight.oldstylenine.oldstyleeight.oldstyleâ1nine.oldstylefive.oldstylenine.oldstyle), however, Hawaiâi regional cuisine ...
PART II: EMPIRES OF FOOD
6. Incarceration, Cafeteria Style: The Politics of the Mess Hall in the Japanese American Incarceration
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The Politics of the Mess Hall in the Japanese American IncarcerationGeorge Takei, best known for playing Mr. Sulu on Star Trek, is one of the most famous of the World War II Japanese American incarcerees. His autobiog-raphy To the Stars, little known except among Trekkers, begins in the camps when he was four and might well be his f_irst memory. T_hen, when the camps ...
7. As American as Jackrabbit Adobo: Cooking, Eating, and Becoming Filipina/o American before World War II
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Cooking, Eating, and Becoming Filipina/o American before World War IIMy father Ernesto Tirona Mabalon arrived in Stockton, California, in 1nine.oldstylesix.oldstyle3 to be reunited with his father, Pablo âAmboâ Mabalon, who had lef_t their home-town of Numancia, Aklan, for the United States in 1nine.oldstyle2nine.oldstyle. My lolo (grandfather) Ambo ran a popular Filipino American diner, the Lafayette Lunch Counter, in ...
8. Lechon with Heinz, Lea & Perrins with Adobo: The American Relationship with Filipino Food, 1898–1946
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If you had sat down to dinner at the Manila Hotel in 1nine.oldstyle3six.oldstyle, only a few dishes on the menu would have been Filipino. Most of the itemsâthe olives in the India relish, chicken gumbo soup, braised sweetbreads, squab casserole, beans, carrots, potatoes, and petits foursâwere so classically French that you easily could have been in a hotel in New York or London. A few Filipino itemsâ...
9. “Oriental Cookery”: Devouring Asian and Pacific Cuisine during the Cold War
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...âCooking is considered an art in the Orient,â Ruby Erskine explained to stu-dents in her cooking class at the Womenâs Auxiliary to the Salt Lake Chap-ter of Life Underwriters in Utah. âAnd the food in the Orient,â Erskine added as she used chopsticks to stir-fry vegetables in an electric skillet, âis a happy combination of good eating and good health.â It was 1nine.oldstyleseven.oldstyle0, and Erskine had ...
10. Gannenshoyu or First-Year Soy Sauce? Kikkoman Soy Sauce and the Corporate Forgetting of the Early Japanese American Consumer
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On September 1nine.oldstyle, 200seven.oldstyle, the Kikkoman Corporation placed a full-page color advertisement in the New York Times commemorating the companyâs f_if_tieth anniversary in America. T_he ad is essentially a letter of thanks to America from Yuzaburo Mogi, the companyâs chairman and CEO. âArigato, America,â the ad reads in large letters. A large photographic cutout of a smiling, grand-...
PART III: FUSION, DIFFUSION, CONFUSION?
11. Twenty-First-Century Food Trucks: Mobility, Social Media, and Urban Hipness
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Just as I turned into the parking lot, I suddenly realized I had no idea what Jae Kim, the founder of ChiâLantro Food Trucks, looked like, and I had forgotten to ask for some mark of identif_ication when we conf_irmed our meeting. But without giving it a second thought, I rushed toward the front door of Asia CafĂ©, a major Austin, Texas, landmark for delicious northern Chinese food. ...
12. Samsa on Sheepshead Bay: Tracing Uzbek Foodprints in Southern Brooklyn
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In southern Brooklyn, at the very tip of the borough where the beaches are the main attraction, runs Ocean Avenue. Along this long street, which begins on Emmons Avenue and ends near Prospect Park, is a long stretch of apartments, which, in the 1nine.oldstyleeight.oldstyle0s, were managed by Turks, Tatars, and Uzbeks. T_he build-ings were hardly six stories high and nearly identical, distinguishable only by ...
13. Apple Pie and Makizushi: Japanese American Women Sustaining Family and Community
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In 1nine.oldstyle30s Los Angeles, Natsuye Fujimoto, a second-generation Japanese Amer-ican teenager, compiled a booklet she entitled âRecipes (Japanese).â Carefully documenting the food her family enjoyed and considered Japanese, she included dishes ranging from âNasu-Ni (SautĂ©ed Eggplant)â and traditional New Yearâs âOzoniâ soup, to âShrimp Saladâ and âBaked Flat Fishâ with âPesha Meruâ ...
14. Giving Credit Where It Is Due: Asian American Farmers and Retailers as Food System Pioneers
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A tour through any supermarket yields rich anthropological information: who lives nearby, what they like to eat, how they clean their bathtubs. Much has changed in American supermarkets since 1nine.oldstylesix.oldstylefive.oldstyle, when the Hart-Cellar Act lif_ted harsh regulations on Asian immigration. Most have added an âAsianâ or âOrien-talâ section, with products like sesame oil and soy sauce for shoppers who wish to ...
15. Beyond Authenticity: Rerouting the Filipino Culinary Diaspora
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A few years ago, I took one of my regular jaunts to Woodside, a neighborhood in the borough of Queens, New York City, where I f_irst lived af_ter arriving in the United States in 1nine.oldstyleeight.oldstylefour.oldstyle. Since the 1nine.oldstylenine.oldstyle0s, the neighborhood has become increas-ingly populated by a variety of Asian Americans, including Korean, Chinese, Indian, T_hai, and Filipino Americans. Along Roosevelt Avenue, from roughly ...
PART IV: READABLE FEASTS
16. Acting Asian American, Eating Asian American: The Politics of Race and Food in Don Lee’s Wrack and Ruin
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What kind of Vedic rabbit hole of temporally acausal connections have we tumbled through? I mean, holy mother of Carl Gustav Jung, throw down the I Ching, man, this is heavy, the serendipity of this, the Deschampsian plum-Greedy land developers. Estranged KoreanâChinese American brothers. Choc-olate ice cream. Buddhist precepts written on paper airplanes. Organic brussels ...
17. Devouring Hawai‘i: Food, Consumption, and Contemporary Art
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For contemporary visual artists of Asian and Pacif_ic backgrounds, tropes of foodâembedded in lived experience and intermeshed with themes of place, material culture, commerce, and migrationâprovide a plethora of multi-sited metaphors and iconographies for global circulation, intersections, and cross connections among peoples and cultures. T_his growing body of work, ...
18. “Love Is Not a Bowl of Quinces”: Food, Desire, and the Queer Asian Body in Monique Truong’s The Book of Salt
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Monique Truongâs The Book of Salt (2003) is a foodie readerâs fantasy. T_he novel abounds with tantalizing, mouth-watering concoctions: duck braised with port-drenched f_igs, tarts crisped with sugared butter, ripe quinces gently simmered in honeyed water. But for the characters in the novel, these delica-cies are rendered all the more fascinating because they are created by BĂnh, the ...
19. The Globe at the Table: How Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian Reconfigures the World
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T_he f_iguration of the world traveler that Jaf_frey describes and the autobio-graphical fashioning of self in her cookbooks already have been analyzed. But an addition to this analysis is the conf_iguration of Jaf_freyâs world. In other words, her booksâ âgastropoeticsâ have been analyzed, but the gastocartogra-phies that she mapsâor elidesâhave not. T_he conventional thinking about ...
20. Perfection on a Plate: Readings in the South Asian Transnational Queer Kitchen
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During the last decade, a wide corpus of writing about food in diasporic con-texts has emerged in ethnic studies and its interlocutory f_ields of gender, race, and sexuality studies. One such work is Krishnendu Rayâs Migrantâs Table, a sociological inquiry that maps the foodways of Bengali American households in the United States.1 T_hrough a series of interviews and thick ethnographic ...
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Page Count: 480
Publication Year: 2013