Eating Puerto Rico: A History of Food, Culture, and Identity

Contents

Contents Foreword xi Acknowledgments xv Introduction 1 1 Rice 15 2 Beans 50 3 Cornmeal 77 4 Codfish 96 5 Viandas 122 6 Meat 161 7 Are We Still What We Ate? 199 8 Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow 245 Selected Glossary 261 Notes 277 Bibliography 343 Index 369 This page intentionally left blank Figures and Tables figures 1.1 Annual per capita consumption in pounds of all types of rice, using 1937 as a base 48 2.1 Imports of dried beans from the United States, 1929–1952 (in millions of pounds) 67 2.2 Total per capita consumption, in pounds, of all legumes dried, fresh, and canned 72 2.3 Per capita consumption, in pounds, of all dried and canned varieties of phaseolus beans 73 2.4 Per capita consumption, in pounds, of dried and canned beans (phaseolus beans), 1975–2010 74 4.1 Population growth and salted cod imports during the nineteenth century 105 4.2 Yearly availability per capita, in pounds, of salted cod imports 112 4.3 Imports of salted cod, in millions of pounds, 1916–1962 113 4.4 Approximation, in millions of pounds, of salted cod, salted pollock/ haddock, and fish in brine imports 119 5.1 Annual per capita consumption, in pounds, of plantains 158 5.2 Annual per capita consumption, in pounds, of viandas 159 6.1 Per capita availability of heads of livestock for consumption, in rough numbers, 1765–1930 185 6.2 Dried (jerked) beef imports in millions of pounds 190 6.3 Pork by-product imports in millions of pounds 190 6.4 Annual per capita consumption, in pounds, of beef and pork 196 7.1 Consumer price index, annual percentage change 233 7.2 Percentage increase in food costs and salaries, 1987–1996 234 tables 1.1 Rice Casseroles in Puerto Rican Cookbooks, 1859–1950 30 1.2 The Importation of Rice to Puerto Rico (in Millions of Pounds) 39 5.1 Daily Rations and Approximate Energy Value of Plantation Food, 1826 142 6.1 Types of Domestic Livestock and Their Distribution in 1765 176 6.2 Types of Food and Quantity of Same for the Military Population 181 ...