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vii Contents Preface The Rancheros of Sierra de la Giganta ix 1 Tiombó to Rancho Viejo 1  The legacy of pirates and priests  Gardens in a land of rock and thorns  Keeping the cows alive 2 Rancho Nuevo to Los Pilares 7  The wrath of John  Goat herders relief ride  The indomitable spirit of Lucio Salvador Meza 3 Los Corrales and Los Dolores 13  The bare-toed vaquero  Cultivating the desert  Palm logs for Chuy Campion Photographs 20 4 La Higuera to Agua Escondida 109  The high price of cannabis  Chavalo’s “museo de carne”  Up the arroyo early 5 Rancho Viejo to Tiombó 115  Reflections at the old mission site  New orchard for Antonio  Ghosts of Incha Appendix Rancheros Visited for This Work 121 ...

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