Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing

Permissions

Permissions Grateful acknowledgment is due to the following individuals and publishers for the right to reprint copyrighted material. Erik Aeder for “Indonesia: Just Another Paradise” from Surfer 20, no. 3 (March 1979). Steve Barilotti for excerpt from “Lost Horizons: Surfer Colonialism in the 21st Century” from The Surfer’s Journal 11, no. 3 (Summer 2002). Nona Beamer for “‘Auhea ‘O Ka Lani (Where Is the Royal Chief?)” from Nâ Mele Hula: A Collection of Hawaiian Hula Chants. Vol. 1. Honolulu : Institute for Polynesian Studies/Brigham Young University, 1987. The Bishop Museum Archives for items found in the Hawaiian Ethnological Notes (HEN) collection, including “Ancient Sports of Hawaii Such As Surfing, Jumping, Sledding, Betting and Boxing” by J. Waiamau from Kuokoa, December 23, 1865 (Thrum # 49); “He Inoa no Naihe” [Name chant for Naihe], trans. Mary K. Pukui (Part III); the George Freeth article from The Evening Herald from the Charles Kenn collection (Box 18, folder 7). The Bishop Museum Press for “Kelea-nui-noho-‘ana-‘api‘api” by Samuel M. Kamakau from Tales and Traditions of the People of Old: Na Mo‘olelo a ka Po‘e Kahiko. Trans. Mary K. Pukui; ed. Dorothy B. Barr ère. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1991; for proverbs from Òlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Trans. Mary K. Pukui. Honolulu: Bishop Museum, Special Publication 71, 1983; for “Activities in Court Circles” from Fragments of Hawaiian History by John Papa ‘Αî. Trans. Mary K. Pukui; ed. Dorothy B. Barrère. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1959. Daniel Duane for excerpt from Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast. New York: North Point Press, 1996. 307 Thomas Farber for excerpt from On Water. Hopewell, N.J.: The Ecco Press, 1994. Farrar, Straus & Giroux, LLC, for excerpt from “The Pump House Gang” from THE PUMP HOUSE GANG by Tom Wolfe. Copyright © 1968, renewed 1996 by Tom Wolfe. William Finnegan for excerpt from “Playing Doc’s Games—I” from The New Yorker (August 22, 1991). The Hakluyt Society for journal entries by James King, Charles Clerke, and David Samwell from The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery. 4 vols. Ed. J. C. Beaglehole. London: Hakluyt Society, 1955–1967, and for the journal entry by Peter Puget from George Vancouver’s A Voyage of Discovery to the Northern Pacific Ocean and Round the World, 1791–1795. 4 vols. Ed. W. Kaye Lamb. London: Hakluyt Society, 1984. Kimo Hollinger for “An Alternate Viewpoint” from Surfer 16, no. 3 (August–September 1975). Honolulu Star-Bulletin for “Faithless Lover Is Turned to Stone” by Clarice B. Taylor from Honolulu Star-Bulletin (Wednesday, November 26, 1958). Mark Jarman for “Ground Swell” from Questions for Ecclesiastes. Brownsville , Ore.: Story Line Press, 1997. Bruce Jenkins for excerpt from “Laird Hamilton: 20th Century Man” from The Surfer’s Journal 6, no. 3 (Fall 1997). Richard Katrovas for “The Surfer” from The Book of Complaints. Pittsburgh : Carnegie-Mellon University Press, 1993. Kevin Naughton, Craig Peterson, and Greg Carpenter for “Centroamerica ” from Surfer 14, no. 3 (August–September 1973). Susan Orlean for excerpt from “The Maui Surfer Girls” from The Bullfighter Checks Her Makeup: My Encounters with Extraordinary People. New York: Random House, c. 2001. Penguin Group (USA) for “Chapter 14,” “Chapter 15,” from GIDGET by Frederick Kohner, copyright © 1957 by Frederick Kohner. Used by permission of Berkeley Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Group (USA) Inc. Steve Pezman for “The Cat’s Ninth Life” from The Surfer’s Journal 11, no. 2 (Spring 2002). Richard L. Robbins for “Surfing Accident at Trestles Beach” from Famous Persons We Have Known: Poems. Spokane: Eastern Washington University Press, 2000. Bob Shacochis for “Return of the Prodigal Surfer” from Outside 26, no. 6 (June 2001). 308 | permissions C. R. Stecyk III for excerpts from articles in Skateboarder magazine: “The Westside Style or Under the SkateTown Influence,” August 1976; “Skateboarder Interview Highlights: Stacy Peralta,” October 1976; “SkateBoarder Interview Highlights: Tony Alva,” February 1977. Surfer magazine for “We’re Number One—Interview: Ian Cairns” by Jack McCoy from Surfer 17, no. 1 (April–May 1976); “Mickey on Malibu ” by Mickey Dora from Surfer 8, no. 6 (January 1968). Rerioterai Tava and Moses K. Keale Sr. for “Ka Hui Nalu Mele: The Surf Club Song” from Niihau: The Traditions of a Hawaiian Island. Honolulu: Mutual, 1989. University of Hawai‘i Press for excerpt from The Victorian Visitors by Alfons L. Korn. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i...