We cannot verify your location
Browse Book and Journal Content on Project MUSE
OR
title

Between the Folds

Stories of Cloth, Lives and Travels from Sumba

Jill orshee

Publication Year: 2000

Textiles have long been integral to the social life and cosmology of the people of East Sumba, Indonesia. In recent decades, Sumbanese have entered a larger world economy as their textiles have joined the commodity flow of an international “ethnic arts” market stimulated by Indonesia’s tourist trade. Through the individual stories of those involved in the contemporary production and trade of local cloth—including animists, Christians, and Moslems; Sumbanese, Indonesian Chinese, and Westerners; inventive geniuses, master artisans, and exploited weavers; rogues, entrepeneurs, nobles, and servants—a vivid account emerges of the inner workings of a so-called “traditional” society and its arts responding inventively to decades of international collecting.

Published by: University of Hawai'i Press

Title Page, Copyright Page

pdf iconDownload PDF (43.9 KB)
 

Contents

pdf iconDownload PDF (97.5 KB)
pp. v-

read more

Preface Entering the Field

pdf iconDownload PDF (44.7 KB)
pp. vii-xii

My interest in eastern Sumba developed by chance encounters, as do most turns in life. On visits to the Indonesian island of Bali during the 1980s, I noticed panoramic “Sumba cloths” displayed in numerous shops lining...

read more

Acknowledgments

pdf iconDownload PDF (24.8 KB)
pp. xiii-

I am deeply grateful to many people in Sumba for the help they have given me over the years and for the persistent beauty of their fabrics, which initially drew me to their island. Most of the information in this book was gathered during a fifteen-month doctoral research period in 1993 and 1994, supported...

Part One: Fabricscapes

read more

Chapter 1: Introduction

pdf iconDownload PDF (71.4 KB)
pp. 3-14

This book is a wide-ranging ethnographic journey, contoured by people who create and trade a kind of cloth through which they interweave and convolute the traditional and the modern, blurring such definitions. I will...

read more

Chapter 2: Locations, Histories, Identities

pdf iconDownload PDF (202.1 KB)
pp. 15-27

In the southernmost region of Indonesia, Sumba sits askew from the sweeping arch of islands forming the province of Nusa Tenggara Timur (the Lesser Sunda Islands). Much of the eastern coastal portion of the island (of this...

read more

Chapter 3: Enfolding History and Flux

pdf iconDownload PDF (703.0 KB)
pp. 28-48

As chronicle of history and communication medium among people in Sumba, cloth has been a visible indicator of comings and goings, asserting identities, conveying meanings, and tracing diverse social intersections throughout...

read more

Part Two: Between the Folds

“Wandi,” “Hawewa,” and “Parai Mutu” maintain individual commercial connections to the main town of Waingapu, and historical alliances and grievances carry on among the villages through numerous family ties....

read more

Chapter 4: Wandi

pdf iconDownload PDF (414.5 KB)
pp. 53-84

In the dusty and chaotic square of the Waingapu bus terminal, the wait is never long for a bemo (a minibus that serves as public transport in much of Indonesia) to the village of Wandi. Although a number of bemos go to the village, I usually...

read more

Chapter 5: Parai Mutu

pdf iconDownload PDF (377.4 KB)
pp. 85-107

"Parai Mutu” is the source of some of the finest textiles in Sumba. The village is referred to by many Sumbanese as na paraing huri mahari (the village of strong custom) or yang paling tradisi (I.; the most traditional). The two...

read more

Chapter 6: Hawewa

pdf iconDownload PDF (247.9 KB)
pp. 108-126

fter an hour bus ride from Waingapu, I often traveled a narrow road running three kilometers inland from the sea, passing numerous households along...

read more

Part Three: Shuttling between Worlds [Contains Image Plates]

pdf iconDownload PDF (1.5 MB)
pp. 127-130

The previous chapters have described episodes in the lives of specific people of eastern Sumba as they are connected in some way with fabrics. The next two chapters enter environments where the lives and creations of some of these people converge with those from the outside world...

read more

Chapter 7: Worlds Converge

pdf iconDownload PDF (306.9 KB)
pp. 131-147

A convergence of worlds occurred every other week in eastern Sumba in the mid-1990s, in organized cultural displays (pameran, I.; exhibition) for foreign tour groups. Rife with intense competition between local people...

read more

Chapter 8: Village Encounters

pdf iconDownload PDF (111.8 KB)
pp. 148-160

Besides the tour groups attending pamerans, there were various foreign visitors to Sumbanese villages, many seeking to experience something exotic or pristine. These tourists (usually traveling in couples or alone) might...

read more

Chapter 9: On Other Islands

pdf iconDownload PDF (240.8 KB)
pp. 161-180

Besides the tour groups attending pamerans, there were various foreign visitors to Sumbanese villages, many seeking to experience something exotic or pristine. These tourists (usually traveling in couples or alone) might...

read more

Chapter 10: Unfolding Passages

pdf iconDownload PDF (145.7 KB)
pp. 181-192

In the last months of 1994, a relentless heat weighed upon East Sumba as people awaited the overdue monsoon. Late in the dry season (ndau wandu), this was a listless and sweltering time of the year when most activity ceased...

read more

Chapter 11: Conclusion

pdf iconDownload PDF (130.9 KB)
pp. 193-202

In 1996, almost two years after I left Sumba, I coiled an ikat headcloth around a Styrofoam form to be included in a glass case in an ethnographic exhibit I was curating at the Hearst Museum of Anthropology at the University of...

Notes

pdf iconDownload PDF (116.8 KB)
pp. 203-230

Bibliography

pdf iconDownload PDF (97.2 KB)
pp. 231-258

Index

pdf iconDownload PDF (68.6 KB)
pp. 259-265


E-ISBN-13: 9780824861636
Print-ISBN-13: 9780824822880

Publication Year: 2000

Recommend

UPCC logo

Subject Headings

  • Sumbanese (Indonesian people) -- Clothing.
  • Textile fabrics, Sumbanese.
  • Textile industry -- Indonesia -- Sumba Island.
  • Textile design -- Indonesia -- Sumba Island.
  • Sumba Island (Indonesia) -- Social life and customs.
  • Sumbanese (Indonesian people) -- Industries.
  • Sumbanese (Indonesian people) -- Commerce.
  • You have access to this content
  • Free sample
  • Open Access
  • Restricted Access