Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture

Contents

$o$# List of Tables ix Preface xi Introduction xv Abbreviations xvii Dynasties xix p )p The World of Traditional Jingju 1 Role Types 3 Plays 17 Visual Components 21 Costumes 26 Aesthetic Principles 28 Beauty 29 p
p The World of Traditional Jingju Costumes 31 Costumes and Roles 31 Identity through Costumes 34 Absence of Time Period 38 Absence of Season 38 Absence of Region 39 Dramatic Circumstances 39 Selection Process 41 Costumes and Movement 42 Costume Sources 48 p Gp The Form and Historical Roots of Costumes 50 Historical Background 50 Cloth-Based Sources of Clothing 52 Han Garments and Traditional Jingju Costumes 53 Hide-Based Sources of Clothing 55 Manchu Garments and Traditional Jingju Costumes 55 Theatrically Based Clothing 57 Form and Conventions of Usage 61 Patterning and Cut of Costumes 63 Construction 65 Fabrics 68 p Hp The Symbolism and Application of Color 70 History of Color Symbolism 70 Upper and Lower Colors 72 Meanings of the Upper Five Colors 73 Meanings of the Lower Five Colors 77 Color Combinations by Role Type 82 Aesthetics of Color Composition 84 Fabric and Embroidery Floss Colors 88 Lining Colors 91 vi @ contents p Ip The Aesthetics and Meanings of the Embroidery Imagery 92 Embroidery in Chinese History 92 Embroidery Techniques 94 Composition 97 Imagery 103 p Kp The Costume Compendium 113 The Major Costumes 114 Mang (Court robe) 114 Nümang (Female court robe) 118 Qimang (Manchu court robe) 122 Gailiang mang (Reformed court robe) 124 Pi (Formal robe) 124 Nüpi (Female formal robe) 126 Kao (Armor) 127 Nükao (Female armor) 131 Gailiang kao (Reformed armor) and Gailiang nükao (Reformed female armor) 133 Xuezi (Informal robe) 135 Nüxuezi (Female informal robe) 140 Fugui yi (Garment of wealth and nobility) 142 The Long Costumes 145 Kai chang (Open robe) 145 Guanyi (Official robe) 147 Gailiang guanyi (Reformed official robe) 148 Eunuch Robe (Taijian yi) 149 Xueshi yi (Scholar’s robe) 150 Jianyi (Archer’s robe) 151 Longtao yi (Attendant robe) 154 Dakai (Big armor) 155 Gongzhuang (Palace garment) 156 The Short Costumes 158 Magua (Riding jacket) 158 Baoyi (Lit. “leopard” or “embracing” clothes) 160 Kuaiyi (Lit. “fast” clothes) and Bingyi (Soldier’s clothes) 162 Chayi (Lit. “tea” clothes) 165 Big-sleeved Robe (Daxiu) 166 Prisoner’s Clothes (Zuiyi) 166 Executioner’s Clothes (Guizishou yi) 167 Jacket and Skirt (Aoqun) and Jacket and Trousers (Aoku) 168 Zhan’ao zhanqun (War jacket, skirt, and trousers) 169 Caipo ao (Colorful jacket for old women) 171 Duantiao (Lit. “short and convenient for playing” robe) and An’anyi (Children’s clothing) 172 The Specific Costumes 173 Religious Costumes 173 Bagua yi (Eight trigrams robe) 173 Fayi (Priest’s chasuble) 174 Sengyi (Buddhist robe) 175 Xiao sengyi (Young monk’s robe) 175 Head Monk Cloak (Jiasha) 177 Seng kanjian or wuseng yi (Military monk vest) 177 Sanse dao beixin (Three-color Daoist vest) 178 Daoist Nun Vest (Daogu kanjian) 179 Mythological Creatures and Beings 179 Ethnic Clothing 181 Qipao (Manchu gown) 181 Bufu (Coat with a badge) 183 Special Characters 184 Yulin jia (Fish-scale armor) 184 Guan Yu 185 Monkey Costumes 186 Zhiduyi (Combat clothes for the Monkey King) 186 Monkey Clothes (Houyi) 187 Houjia (Monkey armor) 188 Little Monkey Clothes (Xiao houyi) 189 Mei Lanfang Designs 189 Guzhuang (“Ancient-style” dress) 189 Cloud-terrace Costume (Yuntai zhuang) 191 contents @ vii Accessory Pieces 192 Trousers (Kuzi) and Colored Trousers (Caiku) 192 Skirts (Qunzi) 193 Vests (Kanjian): Male 194 Vests: Female 194 Large Apron (Da fandan) and Small Apron (Xiao fandan) 195 Capes (Doupeng) 195 Belts 196 Footwear 198 Inner Garments 200 Water Sleeves (Shuixiu) 202 p Dp Makeup, Hair, and Headdresses 203 Women’s Makeup 204 Men’s Makeup 206 Lianpu (Lit. “face chart”) Makeup 207 Hairdressing and Accessories 216 Men’s Hair 223 Beards 224 Headdresses 226 Ceremonial Headdresses 227 Helmets 229 Hats 231 Soft Caps 234 Supplementary Styles 239 Accessories 239 p Fp Dressing Techniques and Costume Plots 243 Training 243 Patterns of Selection 244 Layering Patterns 249 Deviations from Dressing Patterns 250 Costume Plots 250 A Costume Plot and Two Performances 253 Dressing Techniques 260 Trunks and Storage 263 Appendix 1. Costume Pattern Drafts 299 Appendix 2. Dictionary of Jingju Characters 315 Notes 317 Glossary 323 List of Performances 337 Bibliography 341 Index 345 ...