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Index The names of items are listed in the language commonly used in the text. Words with the prefix nü are listed under the garment, such as kao, mang, pi, xuezi, etc. Numbers in boldface refer to illustrations. acting, 24, 42–48 an’anyi (safe clothing for children), 172 aprons, 12, 169, 195; double pleated, 165, 142, 165, 166, 279 Attacking Pei Yuanqing with Fire (Huo shao Pei Yuanqing), 164, 212, 239, 262 audience, 41, 91, 106, 142 Autumn River (Qiu jiang), 165, 179 bagua jin (eight trigrams headdress), 173, 174, 237, 272 bagua yi (eight trigrams robe), 60, 173, 173, 272, 312; trigrams, 174 Bai Suzhen, 19, 20, 171, 229, 315 bamian wei (eight-sided helmet), 211, 212, 230 bangchui jin (“wooden club” hat), 138, 237, 238, 256, 277 baoyi (“leopard” or “embracing” clothes), 9, 54, 160–162, 161, 302 bats (fu), 111, 111, 125, 199, 221 beards, 45, 224–226; cansan (gray three-part), 5, 225, 275; chousan (clown three-part), 16, 165, 225; dangling chou, 139, 225; ermaozi (two small ear tufts), 225, 225; Guan Gong Ran (Guan Yu beard), 185, 186; heisan (black three-part), 259, 292, 294; man rankou (long jing), 78, 209, 224; qiuran (curly), 225; rankou (whiskers), 224; sanliuran (long, thin), 3, 146, 159, 225; white five-part chou, 225; zharan (revealing the mouth), 225, 225 Beating of the Dragon Robe, The, (Da longpao), 154, 315 belts, 196–198; jade, 45, 53, 116, 118, 148, 197; scarf, 140, 143, 163, 196–197, 260, 289, 290; silk cord, 80, 154, 197, 261, 262; small cord, 118, 119, 139, 149, 150, 197, 253, 260, 294; wide firm, 45, 80, 152, 197, 239, 251, 261, 261, 276, 280 bias bindings, 64, 66, 67 big-sleeved robe, 166, 166, 248, 167 bingyi, 18, 36, 57, 98, 162–165, 164, 197, 200, 230 Blocking the Horse (Dangma), 153, 153 boots, 198–199; “barbarian” boots, 171; chaofang (chou boots), 138, 139, 198, 277; “fast boots,” 161, 161, 163, 198; martial boots, 198; tall, high soles, 48, 80, 153, 275, 276, 291, 292, 294; women warriors’ boots, 133 borders, contrasting fabric, 98; caipo ao, 171, 171; eunuch robe, 149–150, 149; executioner’s clothes, 167–168; fugui yi, 142; gongzhuang, 156, 168; jianyi, 154, 154; kai chang, 145, 146; nükao, 107, 132; nümang, 118–119; qimang, 122; qipao, 181, 182 borders, embroidered, 153, 155, 160, 164, 169, 173; kao, 97, 107, 131, 133; xuezi, 137, 140 Broken Bridge, The, (Duan qiao), 6, 20 Buddha, 178; Buddhism, 17, 208, 211–212. See also emblems: Buddhism Buddhist rosary beads, 121, 122, 174, 175, 176, 184 bufu (coat with a badge), 56, 107, 183– 184, 183, 272. See also under dress; Qing dynasty. See also buzi butterfly helmet, 134, 135, 230 buzi, 56, 99, 106–107, 147–148, 147, 183, 183. See also bufu, guanyi caipo ao (colorful jacket), 171, 171 caiqiao (bound foot device), 48, 199 calligraphy, 105, 214 Cao Cao, 15, 18, 115, 209, 209, 214, 233, 315 caowang kui (self-proclaimed king’s helmet), 187, 228–229, 228 capes, 190, 195–196; fringed, 196 Causing an Uproar in the Heavenly Palace (Nao tiangong), 187, 188, 214, 316 chayi (“tea clothes”), 165, 165, 272 Cheng, Madam, 35, 259, 293–294 Cheng Pu, 17, 255, 275–276 Cheng Xue’e, 25, 35, 256–257, 281–283 Cheng Xueyan, 257, 284–286 chou (“ugly” clown role type), 1, 16, 21, 83–84, 93, 98, 139, 142, 154, 165, 176, 183, 183, 225; caidan/choudan (“colorful” female), 17, 17, 171, 171, 346 @ index 180; chou/wenchou (civil), 16, 16, 138, 139; wuchou (martial), 9, 17, 163, 163; yuanzi (courtyard keepers), 256, 280 chou, costume conventions, 248–249, 267, 270 City of Baidi, The, (Baidi cheng), 18, 39, 40, 82, 147, 148, 193, 210, 228, 316 Cixi, Dowager Empress, 22, 27, 71, 122, 174 cloud-terrace costume, 191–192, 191 collars: shoulder, 56, 118; small, with dickie, 57, 93, 122; white inner, 75, 83, 201, 201, 249; women’s cloud, 60, 61, 99–100, 121, 131, 156 color, lower, 72, 77–82; blue, 79, 81; lake blue, 79, 81; maroon, 77, 79, 126; olive green, 24, 79, 82, 88; pink, 33, 77–78, 80, 87 color, mixed, 72; cha (tea color), 72; qing (dark blue-green black), 70, 74 color, upper, 72–77; black, 70, 73, 78, 163; green, 73, 75; red, 24, 39, 70, 72, 73, 74; white, 33, 39, 40, 70, 72, 73, 77; yellow, 23, 70, 71, 73, 76 composition...

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