Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture

Appendix 1. Costume Pattern Drafts

@ The patterns were taken from specific costumes as representative of a garment style. When questions arose, other garments of the same style were examined or measured for comparison, however the garment patterns are generally standardized and variations are slight. @ The lines on the patterns are seam lines. If no collar or band is attached, then a single line indicates the cut line. Double lines indicate piping. @ Ongarmentswithaddedunderlaps,theconnectingseam on the right front is often concealed by the neck band. On asymmetrical closings with faced edges, a very small seam allowance is used to minimize the gap between the edge and the seam of the under lap. @ Both sides of asymmetrical garments are shown, while symmetrical patterns are indicated with half of the garment. Generally only one sleeve is indicated. @ The centerline is indicated with a dot-and-dash line; folds are long dashes; and placement and construction are shown with dotted lines. For example, long band collars are indicated in place with dotted lines on the garments and are also included as separate pattern pieces. Dotted shoulder sections are drawn to show how the under laps are attached. @ Appliqués, flat borders, and tabs are drawn in place with solid lines. Tabs are also indicated separately on the pattern grid. @ Edges of tabs, appliqués, collars, and collar bands are generally finished with bias binding, so no seam allowance is needed. Collars and collar bands are stiffened with interfacing. @ Shoulder-covering collars, in shapes other than standing bands as seen on the mang and magua, for example, are finished separately and not attached to the garments @ Notches on the side seams indicate that the seam is open below. @ The ties on openings indicate where the garment closings are. @ The water sleeves have not been drawn as they are rectangles of standard size. The measurements are indicated in the captions, and the lower edge of the water sleeve is cut on the selvedge. Appendix1.CostumePatternDrafts 300 @ a ppendix 1 sleeve back 12 6 0 Scale in inches shoulder collar extension underlap front 12 6 0 Scale in inches back sleeve front CB collar band Pattern 1. Mang. The front overlap is narrower than the left side, and the underlap is placed to extend the width on right side to match. The extension on the side fronts is shown stitched in place, with the true grain line indicated with an arrow. Canvas is used in the lower sections of the front and back, indicated by a horizontal dotted line, to support the wave embroidery on the hem. The neck edge is finished with covered 3/8-inch cording and facing. Cording is also inserted on the inside edge of the top of the extension to add support because the extensions are free from the main body of the garment. The ties on the back of the neck are laced through small loops on the top of the extensions to hold them in place. The loops at the underarms of the garment support the hooped jade belt. The collar is unattached . The mang is made from satin and lined with a coarse fabric to add volume. The water sleeve is 25 inches wide and 14 inches long (Figs. 6.1 and 6.2). From the author’s collection. Pattern 2. Pi. The location of the seam between the body of the garment and the sleeve varies with the width of the fabric. The length of the collar piece may vary slightly to accommodate the embroidery pattern. Fig. 5.4 shows the folding of the collar band when attached. The pi is a soft robe made from crepe or satin, with a lightweight lining. The water sleeves are 28 inches wide and 14 inches long (Figs. 6.7 and 7.35). From the collection of DTD, UHM, Manoa, Hawai‘i. a ppendix 1 @ 301 back front sleeve laodan collar qingyi collar 12 6 0 Scale in inches collar band back sleeve underlap front 12 6 0 Scale in inches Pattern 3. Nüpi. The base of the collar band usually has a straight edge for older women and an arabesque when worn by younger roles. The maturestyle collar is also wider than the one for younger women. Both are indicated as separate pieces, and the style for the older woman’s neckband is shown in place on the pi pattern piece. The neckline would be drafted narrower to fit the other collar...