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C h a p t e r X X At the Hawiian Islands— Return to America Tall strange-looking tropical trees, coconut and palm, grow on the shore where burning lava once flowed like water and ran to the base of a horrible fire mountain. The natives live very much like those in the South Sea Islands and have grouped together in palm-thatched huts which characterize their native villages. Each village has one or more morai, enclosures serving as cemeteries. In the middle is a temple, where the priests alone have a right to enter. They contain several idols of wood, rudely sculptured. At the feet of these images are deposited and left to putrefy the offerings of the people , consisting of dogs, pigs, fowls, vegetables, etc. The respect of these savages for their priests extends almost to adoration. The immense number also of low-class Japanese and Chinese on the island worship their own idol gods with offerings and burning incense. The natives enjoy their little island home and live a quiet and easy life in a climate which is genial and wholesome and upon a soil whose fertility supplies them, in return for but little labor, with all they want to eat and drink. “If Paulton’s ‘Lazy Society’ still exists somewhere on this earth, all its members ought to make their annual excursion to such an island as I am visiting!” I thought to myself. Such was my view concerning the Sandwich Islands until I landed in Honolulu. Soon Diamond Head came to view, and within a few hours the Australia lay beside the great Honolulu wharf. My old friend, Secretary Emerson of the Hawaiian Board, came to meet me on 173 board the steamer; and in his carriage I was taken to his residence , where I enjoyed the privilege of “talking and eating together ” with this good, beloved brother. Honolulu is the capital of the Hawaiian Islands and the commercial emporium of the entire group. The city is very attractive , with many American and European residences, surrounded by large beautiful velvet lawns and flower gardens, shaded by many graceful old trees. Electric light and telephone wires stretch in various directions like a spider-net. Tramcars run through the principal streets, and steam-cars will take tourists to the neighboring localities. The government buildings, Queen’s Hospital, Bishop Museum, Oahu College, Kamehameha School, Central Union Church and other leading churches, hotels and private residences are all in American and European style. If an American tourist should ascend Punchbowl Hill and get a complete bird’s-eye view of the city, he would feel that he was wandering in one of his own Southern states, and might hardly believe that he was on a small tropical island about two thousand and one hundred miles from San Francisco. Soon after my arrival in Honolulu, I went to the Iolani Palace with my Doctor’s introductory letter and met the president of the Hawaiian republic. He is a tall, fine-looking gentleman somewhere near fifty years of age, with a thick mustache and long beard. He wore a black morning coat and white vest and trousers. His voice was low and his way of talking was very careful and courteous. We talked about the present condition of the new republic and Japanese laborers on the plantations , and other general subjects. The president invited me to call at his private residence and meet his wife. “I hope you will soon feel at home and find many comforts and a good home right in this city,” was his affable remark as I left his official chamber. I made several calls on American residents in the city to whom I was kindly introduced by my friends. Besides President Dole, I met Chief Justice Judd, Justice Frear, Rev. Dr. 174 Chapter XX [3.21.248.119] Project MUSE (2024-04-20 02:41 GMT) Hyde, Rev. Messrs. Gulick and Emerson, and many other leading persons in the capital. They are kind, amiable, sympathetic and good-hearted men, or angels who will undoubtedly get wings by and by in the other world. But, ah! Their overly good Christian character gave me great disappointment. For my first plan for coming to the Hawaiian Islands was to defend Christian America from the dangers of heathen idolaters who live in that country. And for that reason I had spent my precious time and money to reach this very spot to labor. When I met the chief justice...

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