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271 Introduction 1. Georg Simmel, The Philosophy of Money (London: Routledge, 1978), 174–75. See also Kenneth Pomeranz and Steven Topik, The World That Trade Created: Society, Culture, and the World Economy, 1400 to the Present (Armonk, NY, and London: M. E. Sharpe, 1999), 3. 2. Works on retail trade in the West that proved most helpful in conceptualizing this project include Michael Miller, The Bon Marché: Bourgeois Culture and the Department Store, 1869–1920 (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1981); Victoria de Grazia, ed., with Ellen Furlough, The Sex of Things: Gender and Consumption in Historical Perspective (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1996); Susan Porter Benson, Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers, and Customers in American Department Stores, 1890–1940 (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1988); Rita Felski, The Gender of Modernity (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1995); Jennifer Jones, “Repackaging Rousseau: Femininity and Fashion in Old Regime France,” French Historical Studies 18:4 (fall 1994): 939–67; and Amanda Vickery, “Women and the World of Goods: A Lancashire Consumer and Her Possessions, 1751–81,” in Consumption and the World of Goods, ed. John Brewer and Roy Porter (London: Routledge, 1993). Also instructive were Mary Louise Roberts, “Gender, Consumption, and Commodity Culture,” American Historical Review 103:3 (June 1998): 817–44; and Matthew Hilton, “Class Consumption and the Public Sphere,” Journal of Contemporary History 35:4 (2000): 655–66. 3. Louise McReynolds, Russia at Play: Leisure Activities at the End of the Tsarist Era (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 2003), 7. 4. Sally West, I Shop in Moscow: Advertising and the Creation of Consumer Culture in Late Tsarist Russia (DeKalb: Northern Illinois University Press, 2011). 5. Christine Ruane, “Clothes Shopping in Imperial Russia: The Development of a Consumer Culture,” Journal of Social History 28 (summer 1995): 777. 6. Christine Ruane, The Empire’s New Clothes: A History of the Russian Fashion Industry, 1700–1917 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2009). 7. Alan M. Ball, Russia’s Last Capitalists: The Nepmen, 1921–1929 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1987). 8. Elena Osokina, Za fasada Stalinskogo izobiliia: raspredelenie i rynok v snabzhenii naseleniia v gody industrializatsii, 1927–1941 (Moscow: Rosspen, 1999). notes 9. Julie Hessler, A Social History of Soviet Trade (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2004). 10. Amy Randall, The Soviet Dream World of Retail Trade and Consumption in the 1930s (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2008). See also Jukka Gronow, Caviar with Champagne: Common Luxury and the Ideals of the Good Life in Stalin’s Russia (New York: Berg, 2003). An earlier study of the symbolic significance of bourgeois material culture in the late Stalinist era is Vera S. Dunham, In Stalin’s Time: Middleclass Values in Soviet Fiction (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1976). 11. Anne E. Gorsuch and Diane P. Koenker, ed., Turizm: The Russian and East European Tourist under Capitalism and Socialism (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 2006); Susan E. Reid, “Cold War in the Kitchen: Gender and the De-Stalinization of Consumer Taste in the Soviet Union under Khrushchev,” Slavic Review 61:2 (summer 2002): 211–52. See also Susan E. Reid and David Crowley, eds., Style and Socialism: Modernity and Material Culture in Post-War Eastern Europe (New York: Berg, 2000). 12. Elena Osokina, for instance, argues that the NEP era should not be idealized as a time of relative prosperity, pointing out that the standard of living was consistently low. Osokina, Our Daily Bread: Socialist Distribution and the Art of Survival in Stalin’s Russia, 1927–1941 (Armonk, NY: M. E. Sharpe, 2000), 3. 13. William G. Rosenberg, “Introduction,” in Russia in the Era of NEP: Explorations in Soviet Society and Culture, ed. Sheila Fitzpatrick, Alexander Rabinowitch, and Richard Stites (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1991), 3. 14. Hessler, Social History of Soviet Trade, 197–98. 15. Definition adapted from the introduction to de Grazia, with Furlough, Sex of Things; Neil McKendrick, John Brewer, and J. H. Plumb, The Birth of a Consumer Society: The Commercialization of Eighteenth-Century England (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1982), 1–30; Rosalind H. Williams, Dream Worlds: Mass Consumption in Late Nineteenth-Century France (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1982), 3–10; and David Crowley, “Warsaw’s Shops, Stalinism and the Thaw,” in Style and Socialism, ed. Reid and Crowley. 16. Exchange culture is Hessler’s term, which more closely approximates my meaning. Hessler, Social History of Soviet Trade, 20. 17. Jürgen Habermas formulated the idea of the “liberal public sphere” of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century. He suggests that this sphere comprised...

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