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51 McMurdo, Still Lucky One iceberg in a thousand is a black iceberg and that one usually is me but today must be my day to be Skittles blessed, and to be blessed among other things is to walk across the cinder-ash crunch of McMurdo, look down, and in the path find, stem intact, with three leaves and no note, a perfect red plastic poppy just waiting to be sewn to the very top of your best wool hat. ...

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