The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914

Acknowledgments

Acknowledgments I’d like to thank my former colleagues at the University of Kentucky—Virginia Blum, Susan Bordo, Joseph Gardner of the English department, and Ellen Furlough and Philip Harling of the history department—for their invaluable suggestions , questions, and advice. Lisa Collins of the University of Kentucky for supporting my research through extensive travel funding to both London and New York. The Reverend Leslie and Margaret Griffiths of Wesley’s Chapel and Leysian Center, London, for their warm hospitality during my lengthy research trip. Helen Walasek and Brigitte Istim of the Punch Archives, London, for generously allowing me unlimited access to their overwhelming cartoon library. SebastianWormell of the Harrods Archives, London, for his seemingly inexhaustible knowledge of Harrods and for granting me permission to use several one-of-a-kind images. Brian Baker, customer liaison officer of Liberty’s, London, for his colorful, fascinating guided tour of the amazing department store. Shawn Livingston and Bonnie Jean Cox of the University of Kentucky’sW.T. Young Library for their assistance and willingness to purchase a microfilm of the entire run of Fashion, which was vital to my project. Janet Layman, Carolyn Tassie, and the entire interlibrary loan staffs at both the University of Kentucky and Transylvania University for filling my seemingly neverending requests and hunting down innumerable hard-to-find materials. David Stone for granting me permission to use materials from his exhaustive Gilbert and Sullivan collection. Ivan Kreilkamp and Jennifer M. Salrin of Victorian Studies for guiding my revision of a portion of chapter 2 for publication, which subsequently strengthened the entire book. David Sanders, Nancy Basmajian, Jean Cunningham, and John Morris and the editorial staff at Ohio University Press for working diligently to bring my project to print. xi You are reading copyrighted material published by Ohio University Press/Swallow Press. Unauthorized posting, copying, or distributing of this work except as permitted under U.S. copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. Dear friends and colleagues Jeff Birkenstein, Ann Ciasullo, Chris Dixon, Jessica Hollis, Valerie Johnson, Samantha Jones, Meg Marquis, and Darren Shannon for conversation, suggestions, and patience over the years. My mentor, colleague, and friend Ellen Rosenman for her untiring guidance and generous support throughout the original project that led to this book. An earlier version of portions of chapters 2, 3, and 4 was published as “ReFashioning Men: Fashion, Masculinity, and the Cultivation of the Male Consumer in Britain, 1860–1914” in Victorian Studies 46, no. 4 (Summer 2004): 597–630. xii acknowledgments You are reading copyrighted material published by Ohio University Press/Swallow Press. Unauthorized posting, copying, or distributing of this work except as permitted under U.S. copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. ...