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267 Acknowledgments “We Waited as Long as We Could,” by Daniel Patterson. Originally published in Lucky Peach, no. 4 (Summer 2012). Reprinted by permission of Lucky Peach. “The Homesick Restaurant,” by Susan Orlean. Originally published in The New Yorker, January 15, 1996. Reprinted by permission of the author. “Stuffed, Smothered, Z’herbes,” by Sara Roahen. Originally published in Gumbo Tales: Finding My Place at the New Orleans Table (New York: W. W. Norton and Company, 2008). Copyright © 2008 by Sara Roahen. Used by permission of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. “What I Cook Is Who I Am,” by Edward Lee. Excerpted from Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories from a New Southern Kitchen. Copyright © 2013 by Edward Lee. Used by permission of Artisan, a division of Workman Publishing Co., Inc., New York. All rights reserved. “God Has Assholes for Children,” by Eddie Huang. Excerpted from Fresh Off the Boat: A Memoir (New York: Spiegel & Grau, 2013). Copyright © 2013 by Eddie Huang. Used by permission of Spiegel & Grau, an imprint of The Random House Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC. All rights reserved. Any third party use of this material, outside of this publication, is prohibited. Interested parties must apply directly to Random House LLC for permission. “You Have to Fall in Love with Your Pot,” as told to Sara Wood by Ida MaMusu. Oral history conducted for the Southern Foodways Alliance, March 5, 2013. “Around the World in Eight Shops,” by Kathleen Purvis. Originally published in the Charlotte Observer, March 20, 2013. Reprinted by permission of the Charlotte Observer. “That’s Your Country,” as told to Sara Wood by Argentina Ortega. Oral history conducted for the Southern Foodways Alliance, December 10, 2012. “Friends and Families,” by Nikki Metzgar. Originally published in Food Arts 26, no. 1 (January–February 2013). Reprinted courtesy of Food Arts. “The Perfect Chef,” by Todd Kliman. Originally published in Oxford American, no. 68 (Spring 2010). Reprinted by permission of the author. acknowledgments 268 “Nature’s Spoils,” by Burkhard Bilger. Originally published in The New Yorker, November 22, 2010. Reprinted by permission of the author. “I Had a Farm in Atlanta,” by John T. Edge. Originally published in Oxford American, no. 80 (Spring 2013). Reprinted by permission of the author. “The Price of Tomatoes,” by Barry Estabrook. Copyright © 2007 Condé Nast. All rights reserved. Originally published in Gourmet, 2009. Reprinted by permission. “Working in the Shadows” (excerpt), by Gabriel Thompson. Originally published in Working in the Shadows: A Year of Doing the Jobs (Most) Americans Won’t Do (New York: Nation Books, 2010). Reprinted by permission of Nation Books and the author. “The Celebrity Shepherd,” by Besha Rodell. Originally published on the Modern Farmer website, May 16, 2013. Reprinted by permission of the author. “The Triumph of Jamie Oliver’s ‘Nemesis,’” by Jane Black. Originally published on Gilt Taste, August 29, 2011. Reprinted by permission of the author. “Grabbing Dinner,” by Bill Heavey. Originally published in Garden and Gun, October– November 2011. Reprinted by permission of the author. “Hogzilla,” by Dan Baum. Originally published in Gun Guys: A Road Trip (New York: Knopf, 2013). Reprinted by permission of Knopf. “A Taste for the Hunt,” by Jonathan Miles. Originally published in Garden and Gun, October–November 2011. Permission courtesy of the author. “Eat Dessert First,” by Robb Walsh. Originally published in Barbecue Crossroads: Notes and Recipes from a Southern Odyssey (Austin: University of Texas Press, 2013). Reprinted by permission of the author on behalf of University of Texas Press. “Anyone and Everyone Is Welcome,” as told to Francis Lam by Sue Nguyen. Oral history conducted for the Southern Foodways Alliance, July 27, 2008. “The Great Leveler,” by Julia Reed. Originally published in But Mama Always Put Vodka in Her Sangria! Adventures in Eating, Drinking, and Making Merry (New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2013). Reprinted by permission of the author. “The Post-Husk Era,” by Robert Moss. Originally published in Charleston City Paper, August 8, 2012. Reprinted by permission of the author. “Ode to Gumbo,” by Kevin Young. © 2008 by Kevin Young. Originally published in Dear Darkness (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2008). Reprinted by permission of the author. All rights reserved. “Mother Corn and the Dixie Pig: Native Food in the Native South,” by Rayna Green. Originally published in Southern Cultures 14, no. 4 (Winter 2008). Reprinted by permission of the University of North Carolina Press / Southern Cultures and the author. “Every Ounce a Man’s Whiskey? Bourbon in the White Masculine South,” by Seán McKeithan...

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