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notes Introduction 1. See, for instance, Hale, Making Whiteness, 85–104; Ayers, Promise, 339–49; Jones, Labor of Love, 110–15; Williams-Forson, Building Houses, 80–90; Cowdrey, This Land, 103; Daniel, Standing at the Crossroads, 73–77; Manring, Slave in a Box, 110–48. 2. For one take on the Cherokee corn mother story, see Awiakta, Selu, 9–14. 3. Sauceman, “Social Class and Food,” 104. Indeed, I myself am an inveterate forager, carrying my mulberry bucket all through spring when I lived in Atlanta and walked to my graduate classes, chewing on sassafras root on hikes in the woods as I worked in West Virginia, and always on the lookout for black raspberries or forgotten apple orchards on trips home to the North Carolina mountains. 4. Flagg, Fried Green Tomatoes, 398. For the story of how the novel popularized the recipe, see Best and Abbott, “Tomatoes,” 277. McPherson describes the South’s practiceofdisconnectingco-presentwhitenessandblacknessas“lenticular”;shestrives to “fashion new paradigms of vision and visibility” by refusing those separations. McPherson, Reconstructing Dixie, 7–8. 5. Reed, “Barbecue Sociology,” 78. Edge, “Foreword” in Engelhardt, Republic of Barbecue, xv. Henry D. Shapiro, Appalachia, 264–65; Tullos, Habits of Industry, 3–4. Other social historians include, among many, Margaret Hagood, Ed Ayers, and Jacquelyn Dowd Hall; the Global South studies scholars include James Peacock, KathrynMcKee,andJenniferGreeson,amongothers.Americanstudiesscholarssuch as Psyche Williams-Forson or Andrew Warnes join McPherson and Yaeger to round out the debates over a cohering and fragmenting South. 6. Engelhardt, Tangled Roots, 86–92. 7. Duke’s Mayonnaise, “Duke’s History”; Duke’s Sandwich Company, “About Us.” 8. White Lily, Martha White, and Coca-Cola were joined by many other distinctive southern food products: Dr Pepper, MoonPies, Tabasco, Mountain Dew, etc. See various entries, Edge, Foodways. Modern advertising, marketing, celebrity endorsement , distribution, and copyright were pioneered by some of these businesses; the full corporate story of food in the South has yet to be written. Levenstein, Revolution, 27. Gabaccia, We Are What, 37–38. Levenstein begins his study of “the transformation 206 notes to introduction and chapter one of the American diet” with a meal given in 1880 in New York City at Delmonico’s restaurant. Levenstein argues that meal happened because large food companies, the transportation infrastructure that supported them, and the consumer marketplace they supplied were already in place to dominate American foodways. By the 1930s, the excesses of the Delmonico’s meal morphed into middle-class emphases on nutritional science, proper calories, and labor-saving food technologies. Levenstein focuses primarily on the Northeast and on class issues; he rarely turns his attention southward. Donna Gabaccia adds a complementary focus on race and ethnicity to the national food story. Gabaccia, still mostly avoiding the South, argues that national food companies were indebted to immigrant entrepreneurs who expanded both the palate of consumers and also the pool of available customers. To Gabaccia, the American food story is one of creolization through time. To both, companies with national reaches homogenized everyday food in the United States. 9. Sidney Mintz’s claims there are no American cuisines notwithstanding (Mintz, Tasting, 97–98). For a counter to his argument, see Warnes, Savage Barbecue, 89–92. Egerton, Southern Food, 2. 10. Extensive genealogical research in the family has turned up no such stories, but neither were such stories meant to be found. 11. Hale, Making Whiteness, 94–98. Opie, Hog and Hominy, 1–15; WilliamsForson , Building Houses, 136. For discussions of food in colonial commodity chains, see, for instance, Mintz’s Sweetness and Power, Harris’s Beyond Gumbo, and Warnes’s Savage Barbecue, among many others. 12. A fast-developing field, southern food studies more recently has reflected the emphasis of scholars associated, as I am, with the Southern Foodways Alliance—an inclusive and broadly defined vision of preserving the diverse cultures, practitioners, andingredientsofsouthernfood,whereverandamongwhomeveritoccurred.See,for instance, www.southernfoodways.com. 13. Ferris, “Gender and Food,” 58. 14. Sinclair, The Jungle, 1; DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 67–89. On women and food, see especially Avakian and Haber,From Betty Crocker, 1–28; Haber,From Hardtack , 1–6. 15. Bower, “Bound Together,” 6. Newlyn, “Challenging Contemporary Narrative Theory,” 35. 16. Schneir, Feminism in Our Time, 125–29. Chapter one. Moonshine 1. Since this project’s focus is on foodways—by which I mean the range of ingredients , preparations, rituals, and cultural politics that make up food practices—the [54.234.45.33] Project MUSE (2024-03-29 09:02 GMT) notes to chapter...