Rosalie Edge, Hawk of Mercy: The Activist Who Saved Nature from the Conservationists

2. Wife of Charles Noel Edge

For their honeymoon, Charles Edge had reserved a suite at the elegant Fujiya Hotel, nestled in the wooded mountains on Mount Fuji’s perimeter. The Fujiya, with its natural hot springs and odd blend of Victorian and traditional Japanese architecture, was the first hotel in Japan built for Western tourists, in 1878. Of greater contrast than the architecture were the women of the East and the West: dainty and delicate Japanese maidens prettily shuffled about in their sandals, as they waited on “sour-visaged European females,” dismissively noted one Englishman who had stayed at the hotel. This group was composed of “veritable ogresses, bespectacled, loose-bloused, curled, broad-waisted women of the type whose sole mission . . . is to vulgarize the world.” The ogresses were often recent brides. In the long letter that the new Mrs. Charles Noel Edge wrote to her mother from the Fujiya , she gives a unique counterpoint to the Englishman’s harsh judgment. 1st June 1909 Fujiya Hotel Minyanoshita Dearest Mother— This is Tuesday, and I have been a British matron since Friday—and yet have not written to you! We are both very well—happy? And we are in the loveliest spot in the world and do the most delightful things. I send you a postcard of the [ chapter two Wife of Charles Noel Edge 34 ] chapter two hotel—it is said to be the finest in the East—delicious chow, which being interpreted means food and excellent service. We have delightful rooms and for days at a time do not need to penetrate to other parts for we usually dine upstairs. Our first day I am afraid you would have said “poor children” for Charlie was quite ill, it seems since he came to Japan and looked a very ghost. My nose bled violently before my wedding and continued for two days and when it came to Saturday evening dinner being all served I was flat on the floor and Charlie looking so frightened that my desire to laugh revived me. We took counsel after that and spent Sunday quietly on the hills—quite a procession—two coolies carrying tea, books, rugs, knitting, Marquis chocolates—we climbed a mountain—little heat and spent the entire day in the open air and since that, there have been no nosebleeds and Charlie is getting very bonny and his cough sounds less graveyard-like. There is an ideal swimming bath, water clear as crystal always, running in and out from a hot spring carved out of this side of the greenest hills and we swim there at any and all times of the day—always before breakfast, having first had coffee. Yesterday we had a long ride—horses very bad, trappings truly remarkable—but a lovely ride in the mountains and a delicious swim afterwards . What I have seen of Japan is too beautiful—it is like Scotland—the same bare hills but in all the sheltered places this most delicious almost tropical green—perfect all except the people—the men servants I don’t mind but how I loathe the impertinent giggling women. Oh! You should see Charlie’s Chinese “boy” Wang! He calls me “Missy” which does not seem quite proper. The hotel is crowded with brides and grooms there is scarcely anything else here, and we all eye one another with frank interest. I am beginning to speak pigeon [sic] English quite fluently. Margaret promised to write you full particulars of our lovely and complete wedding—our bridesmaids, our breakfast , the beautiful decorations—everything complete. I don’t wonder Charlie was ill, no little thing forgotten—and I can assure you the champagne was good—Best of all I loved my bouquet, though Charlie was horrified—it was to have been all white but turned up orchids every known shade—one would never have had the imagination to order it but it was beautiful. We had our pictures taken in the garden as we came out from the church so you will see a little what it was like. You should see Mabel’s diamonds and new silver—oh! If you could see my coffee set: The Mater and Dad are sending a diamond brooch but I will not get it until I get to Shanghai. Thank you so much for the cameo and the Horace. I loved them and was much touched. wife of charles noel edge [ 35 I can’t write...