Hair Matters: Beauty, Power, and Black Women's Consciousness

Appendix II: Defining Black Hair and Hairstyling Practices

Appendix II Defining Black Hair and Hairstyling Practices Tables 1 and 2 are based on the operational definitions that I used for grouping the interviewees into categories of “hair types/textures ” and “hairstyle.” For the present study, “hair types/textures ” includes what are commonly known as hairstyles as well as hair textures. I have limited the definition of “hairstyle” in table 2 to length of hair. Table 3 presents popular definitions of black hair terms and hairstyles or hairstyling practices. Although I de- fine terms for my own research purposes in tables 1 and 2, there are important and obvious overlaps between tables 1 and 3. table 1 Hair Types/Textures Hair Type/Texture Definition Relaxed/permed, straightened/pressed Chemically and heat altered—straight Natural Tightly coiled (a.k.a. “kinky,” “nappy”), straight, curly, and/or wavy without chemicals Braids Extensions—synthetic or human hair Dreadlocks Natural and salon Weave Extensions—synthetic or human hair Chemically altered (other) Texturizer, jheri curl 171 table 2 Hairstyles Hairstyle Definition Long Past shoulders Medium Shoulder length Short Upper neck/above neck/ cut close to head table 3 Popular Black Hair and Hairstyling Glossary of Terms Nappy; kinky; “bad hair”: Hair that is tightly coiled or curled. This type of hair is referred to as “natural” black hair because it is not chemically altered . Defined in relationship to “good hair.” Although nappy and kinky have derogatory roots that still exist, many blacks have appropriated these terms to describe positive characteristics of tightly coiled or curled black hair. Some natural styles such as the Afro are referred to as nappy or kinky hair. “Good hair”: Hair that is naturally straighter in texture. However, “good” hair can be quite curly but is not tightly coiled or curled such as nappy hair. “Good” hair is defined in relationship to “bad” hair and is perceived as more manageable and desirable. Natural hair: Hair that is not chemically altered or straightened by the pressing comb or blow dryers. Natural hair and styles are often defined as nappy. They also are associated with black pride and a rejection of white standards of beauty among some blacks. Relaxed hair; permed hair; relaxer; perm: Hair that is chemically altered, by applying sodium hydroxide (lye) or calcium hydroxide (no lye) to loosen the curl or coil of tightly coiled or curled black hair. As a result, the hair becomes straight after the chemicals are applied. “Relaxer” and “perm” refer to the chemicals or product that is used to straighten the hair. For some blacks, relaxed or permed hair is perceived as rejecting tightly coiled black hair and therefore black physical characteristics. Pressed hair; straightened hair: Hair that is straightened by heatby using the pressing comb. The pressing comb is also referred to as the “straightening comb” and “hot comb.” Dreadlocks: Hair that is matted together in sections, thereby denoting the term “locks.” Has roots in Rastafarianism but many people who wear locks may not be Rastas. However, dreadlocks are associated with black pride for some, and style for others. Some dreadlocks are grown naturally, while others can be sculptured in salons (e.g., silky dreads). Braids (e.g., micro, box, doo doo, goddess, Bantu knots, Sengalese twists): Synthetic or human hair that is braided into the individual’s real hair. This maintains braids for longer periods of time. Braids also allow individuals to Appendix II 172 wear certain hairstyles (e.g., the bob) and also add length to already existing hair. Cornrows: Hair braided or twisted in various forms and attached to the scalp. Plaits: Hair separated in three parts and braided. Jheri curl: Hair that is chemically altered by applying ammonium thioglycolate . The hair is then rolled on small rods and dried, leaving the hair curly or wavy. Similar to relaxed or permed hair, the texture of the hair is changed, but the hair is curly and wavy and the curl of the hair does not resemble tightly coiled or curly hair. Weave: Synthetic or natural hair that is braided, sewn, bonded (i.e., glued), or woven into already existing hair. Texturized hair; texturizer: Chemically altered hair that can appear straight or curly or way (i.e., like the jheri curl). “Texturizer” is the term that explains the type of chemical that is in the hair. Note: To ensure the accuracy of the definitions, I asked other black women, some of whom do hair...