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RECIPES
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Recipes Wild Boar Although none of us had cooked boar before our first Christmas feast, afterwardmymotherwantedtotryherhandatasanglierdish.Counter to the ardent and repeated advice to marinate or stew the meat, however , she was determined to target its essential flavor. She had an idea that you could take a classic standing rib-roast recipe and make it even more sumptuous with young boar meat. She was right. In the 1980s, the “low-fat diet” was triggered by fears that wellmarbled , super-tender meat was responsible for obesity and heart disease . Public demand grew for white, lower-cholesterol, lower-calorie meats such as skinless chicken breasts and lean pork. In response, the pork industry, particularly in the United States, has mass-produced nearly flavorless pork. Tastes change, though; nowadays, there is a demand for organic, richer-tasting meats. Even the Japanese are conducting meat-science studies on wild boar/domestic pig mixes aimed at achieving attractive, rich, red coloration and quality muscle fiber to go with the versatility and high production yield of pork. Championing the essential flavor of organic food is becoming increasinglycommonamongfoodwriterslikeMichaelPollanandsuperb chefs like Daniel Barber, who created Blue Hill Restaurant in Manhattan . Barber runs his own organic farm in New York State to supply produce for his restaurants, virtually erasing the distance between where food is produced and the plate. In raising animals, Barber’s goal is to create free-range conditions for the flavor of the meat, the health of the animal, and the protection of the environment. “We try to mimic the conditions of the wild boar or wild animal,” he says. “That’s the name of the game.” Recipes Wild Boar Although none of us had cooked boar before our first Christmas feast, afterwardmymotherwantedtotryherhandatasanglierdish.Counter to the ardent and repeated advice to marinate or stew the meat, however , she was determined to target its essential flavor. She had an idea that you could take a classic standing rib-roast recipe and make it even more sumptuous with young boar meat. She was right. In the 1980s, the “low-fat diet” was triggered by fears that wellmarbled , super-tender meat was responsible for obesity and heart disease . Public demand grew for white, lower-cholesterol, lower-calorie meats such as skinless chicken breasts and lean pork. In response, the pork industry, particularly in the United States, has mass-produced nearly flavorless pork. Tastes change, though; nowadays, there is a demand for organic, richer-tasting meats. Even the Japanese are conducting meat-science studies on wild boar/domestic pig mixes aimed at achieving attractive, rich, red coloration and quality muscle fiber to go with the versatility and high production yield of pork. Championing the essential flavor of organic food is becoming increasinglycommonamongfoodwriterslikeMichaelPollanandsuperb chefs like Daniel Barber, who created Blue Hill Restaurant in Manhattan . Barber runs his own organic farm in New York State to supply produce for his restaurants, virtually erasing the distance between where food is produced and the plate. In raising animals, Barber’s goal is to create free-range conditions for the flavor of the meat, the health of the animal, and the protection of the environment. “We try to mimic the conditions of the wild boar or wild animal,” he says. “That’s the name of the game.” [44.222.146.114] Project MUSE (2024-03-28 16:17 GMT) 160 • r ecipes My mother, who cooked with Barber when he first started realizing his culinary gifts, completely agreed with his methods. Wild boar is flavorful organic food from our backyard. With good-quality pork, my mother’s simple dish is exceptional, the key being to get an herb and butter mixture between the bone and the loin. Roast Loin of Boar/Pork with Herbs Serves 5 to 6 3- to 4-pound loin, bone-in¼ pound butter¼ cup each chopped fresh sage and parsley 2 tablespoons each chopped fresh thyme and rosemary 2 to 3 tablespoons minced garlic Salt and freshly ground pepper 1. Keeping your knife close to the bone, cut a channel through the loin. 2. Mix chopped herbs and minced garlic with the butter (olive oil will do nicely too). Push the mixture in the hole you’ve made until it’s full. 3. If there is a layer of fat (desired for crispy, succulent skin) on the outside of the roast, make tiny parallel cuts through the fat over the whole roast and rub the butter/herb mixture into the surface of the roast, making sure to get it into all...